
Instininent No. 36, 35c. | Wooden scale $3.00. 



f 

U Entered according to ihe Act of Congress by Fred. Kuoechel, in the 

A^ office of the librarian at Congress, at Washington D.C. in the year 1878. '^ 

1 



f 

H. Cx 



Book Store, 
71 Avenue A. 




Authorized Agents: 
Scliwerdtfeger, J A. Koesch, 



No. 748 6th Street. 



^ 



NEW YORK. 



NEW YORK. 

S. MuHLHAUSER & SoN. Printers 07 Clinton St., 
18 78. 



J 



!i ^ ^ !% :^! 



^ 



j^^n^^ 



FRED. KNOECHEL'S 



MODEL 




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^«»#»» f 



FIRST EDITION. 



Instrument No. 36, 35c. | Wooden scale $3.00. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress by Fred. Knoechel, in the 
office of the librarian at Congress, at Washington D.C. in the year 1878. 



•-^ Authorized Agents: 

^ H. G. Schwerdtfeger, j. A. Eoesch, 

X v\'^' Book store, No. 748 6th Street. 

^ 71 Avenue A. 

NEW YORK. 



NEW YORK. 

S. MuHLHAUsEE & kSon, Printers 67 Clinton St., 

1878. • ' opco/, 

t 




^ 






^ 



INDEX. 



Description of Scale _.-_.- Page 4 
Description for measuring, drafting & cutting 

of coats [Dia. 1] 5 — 9 

Rules to draft collar and lapelle [Dia. 2] _ _ - 10 

Sack coat (Dia. 3) - . . - - - 10—11 

Rules for corpulent persons (Dia. 4 — 5) - - -11 — 12 

Dress coat skirt (Dia. 6) - - - - - 12 

Coat for crippled structure (Dia. 7) - - - 12 — 13 

Sleeve (Dia. 9) _ - . ... 13—14 

Rules for making of coats (Dia. 1, 2, & 3) - - 15 

Vest (Dia. 10) 15—16 

Breast vest [Dia. 11 & 12] - - - -^ 16—18 

Making up of vests with & without collar - - 18—19 
Description for measuring, di-afting & cutting of pants 

[Dia. 13 & 14] 19—20 

Extra corpulent structure [Dia. 15] - - - 22 

Spring bottom [Dia. 16] - - - - - 22—23 
Alterations for the different shaped legs, and rules 

to make up pants ------ 23 

Measures to cut ready-made clothing for men, boys 

and youths - 24 



CORRECTIONS. 

Page 7, Art. 27, read: toward point "F" in place of G. 
"21, " 30, " on 4th line, to point "8" in place of S. 
" as, " 13, " forming point "Z" in place of F. 



\ 



PREFACE. 



Progress and improyement cliaracterize almost every art and 
science, that of Cutting keeping pace with the rest. Within the 
last few years the want has uniyersally been expressed of a work 
founded on a thorough and practical knowledge of the art. 

The author now ventures to lay before the public a work 
which he trusts may be deemed worthy to meet this desideratum. 

In the preparation of this work it has been the author's aim 
to combine and to present in one harmonious whole, all the mo- 
dern improvements, as well as to introduce an entu-ely new and 
practical mode of operation, shorter and more easily compre- 
hended (by the beginner) than a great many others; the author 
also claims for this treatise improvement upon if not superiority 
over others of the kind in the following particulars, viz: in the 
mechanical and typical style of the work; the open and attrac- 
tive page; the progressive and scientific arrangement of the 
subjects; clearness and cociseness of definitions; fullness and 
accuracy in the new and improved method of operation; brevity 
and perspicuity of rules ; and in the number of drafts prepared 
and arranged with special reference to their practical utility, 
and their adaption to the real business of active life. 

Particular attention is invited to rules given for the different 
structures, as it is believed these rules contain practical features 
not common to other authors upon this subject. 

It is not claimed that this is a perfect work, for perfection is 
impossible; but no effort has been spared to present a clear, 
scientific, comprehensive and complete system, sufficiently full 
for the business man and the scholar; not encumbered with un- 
neccessary theories, and yet combining and systematizing real 
improvements of a practical and useful nature. How nearly 
this end has been attained the intelligent scholar and experien- 
ced cutter may determine. 



DESCRIPTION OF SCALE. 



Scale Xo. 1. 

1., we find division ^narked S. Sh. Xo. 1 (Single Shoulder Xo. 1) 
from 16-42, which division begins at the line desi^^nated by the 
word "Front," and is used to determine position of line D. 

2., we find at the end of the scale, division marked S. Sh. No. 2 
Single Shoulder No. 2 fi'om 16-42, used to determine position 
of point E on line A. 

3., we find two ,2) divisions, marked HMD, 'hip measure divi- 
sions; which begin at the line designated by the word ''Front, " 
from 1 to 6 in regular inches, parallel to this small division fi'om 
2 to 6, which are used to determine position of point I. 

4., we find division marked Br. No, 1, Breast No. I - fi'om 20 to 
60, I which begins at stars under division marked BD, and i3 
used to deteiTiiine width of back at top k bottom, also of point 
O on line D. 

5., we find division mai'ked S. Sh. No. 3 (Single Shoulder No. 3) 
fi'om 16 to 42, which is used to determine position of point P 
on Line D. 

6., we find division marked BD Back division^ from 4 to 15, 
which is used to determine position of point S on line D. 

Scale Xo, 2. 

2 we find division mai'ked S. Sh. No. 4 Single Shoulder No. 4) 
''from 16-42, which is used to determine position of point IT i^or 
width of shoulder. . 

2 we find division marked BR No. 2. Breast No. 2 from 10 to 
'"60. being regular 6ths and 3rds ^sixths and thirds which is 

used to determine position of point PP for which the sixths 
are USedj also to determine width of back at bottom for 
Sack Coats and Sack Overcoats ;for which the thirds are 
used.) 

3 we find division marked BR No, 3 Breast No. 3) fi*om 20 to 
'60, which is used to determine the position of put RR on line KR. 

For explanation and illustration the ABC is used. 
Sucon — to be cut out. 
Gusset — to be set in. 

Alterations are shown by means of dotted linea. 
Single lines — to be stretched. 
^ Cross lines — to be shriuik. 



DESCRIPTION FOR MEASURING, 
DRAFTING AND CUTTING OF COATS. 

Tlie measure is always taken over the vest (the overcoat ex- 
cepted by which it is taken over the dress coat) and is to be 
done in the following manner : 

Place yourself behind the customer so as to look squarely at 
the back part of the head, placing the hands underneath the 
arms and gTadually coming downward to hip. Observe that the 
point which shall designate the hip bone is to be marked strictly 
on the same (forming point 2) mark the vertigo [iovm point 3) 
also centre of back at waist (form point 1.) 

Proceed to take the measure in the followijig manner: See Fig. 1. 

1st. Hip Measure, fi'om centre of back point 1 to point 2 (or hip 
point.) 

2nd. Front Balance, from point 3 (or vertigo), crossing chest to 
point 2 ( or hip point.) 

3rd, Back balance, from jDoint 3 (or vertigo) crossing shoulder 
blades to point 2 i or hip point.) 

4th. Single Shoulder, from point 3 (or vertigo) passing in front 
of the arms, under the same, crossing shoulder-blades re- 
turning to point 3. 

5th. Length of sleeve, from point 3 passirg over front of shoul- 
der to wrist, allowing 1 inch 

6th. Height of gorge (point 4, see figure) from gorge (or 
point 4) to point 2. 

7th. Full length of waist. fi"om point 3 to point 5, (see fig. No.l.) 

8th. Full length of coat (or skirt length) from point 5 to 6. 
See Fig. 1. This is governed entirely hu faahion or cuf^toniern icish. 
If using a belt remove the same. 



Remark to Hip Bone. The most simple way to find the correct 
position of hip bone, is to place a belt around the waist whereby the hip 
bone will show itself prominently. 

Remark to Vertigo. The vertigo is found in the following manner : 
place the hand on back of head and gradually descend toward the spinal 
column, holding the head in an erect position ; the 1st projecting bone is 
the aforesaid vertigo. 

Remark to natural waist. The natural waist measure is found through 
front balance measure. 

Remark to Single Shoulder Measure. In taking measure No. 4, the 
tape is to be applied very closely to the body. 

Remark to Sleeve. The length of sleeve depends entirely on iaste of 
customer; some wearing the same very long, others short (called cuff sleeves) 



9th. Breast measure. (Observe strictly to pass the tape across 
the breast and shoulder blades; {it is not necessary to change po- 
sition to take this.) 
10th. Waist measure, (from point 1 around waist returning to 
point 1.) 

After taking the above measures proceed to draft in the 
following manner: 
1st. Draw line A. 

2nd. From line A at point C square line B, 
3rd. Apply from the line B on the line A, the single shoulder 
measure (whatever it may be) using division of scale S. Sh. No. 
1; mark point at hne designated by the word "Front" forming 
point D, keeping scale in this position; lay off single shoulder 
measure, (using division of scale S. Sh. No. 2) forming point E. 
4th. From line A at point D sc^uare hne D. 
5th. From point E on line A, lay off (with tape) on hne D ^ of 
single shoulder measure forming point F. 
6th. From line D at point F square line B. F. (right and left.) 
7th. From point C lay off on line B, the front balance meas- 
ure (No. 2) forming point G. 
8th. From line B at point G square line Gl, the point of inter- 
section of the line Gl & D forming point 1. 
9th. From point G lay off on line Gl, (with tape) hip measure 
(No. 1) forming point H. 
10th. From point 1 on line D, place the line designated by the 
word ''Front" useing H.M D. (^hip measure diyision'i and meas- 
ure distance fi'om point 1 to H, (using large division) and Jay 
off the same distance (using small division) forming point Ion 
line Gl. 
11th. Divide distance between point 1 and I into 2 equal parts, 

forming point K. 
12th. From point I on line Gl ]ay off on line B, back l^alance, 

(measure No. 3) forming point L. 
13th. Draw line XL from pnt. L on liue B to point I on hne Gl, 

the intersecting point on lines IL & BF, forming point 2. 
14th. From the line B at point L, square line LM and fi'bm point 
L lay off on the same, Breast Measure (No. 9) using division Br. 
No. 1, marking at stars, forming i)oint M fi'om point M upward.^ 
^ inch, forming point N. 
15th. Place the stars on line A at point D and lay oft' on line D ; 
breast measure using division Br. No. 1, forming ix>int O, also 
single shoulder measure using division S. Sh. No. 3, forming 
point P. 
16th. Place the corner of scale on point P at line D, letting the 
inner edge touch pnt. L on line B; keeping scale in this position 
draw the line P3 along narrow edge of scale and prolong the 
same so as to intersect the line A at point 3 sweep fi'om point 
D on line A and from point O on line D, so a^ to intersect the 



line P3, forming the points Q and R. 
I7th. Measure the distance from pnt. L to line BF on line B and 
lay off the same on line D from point F, using division marked 
BD, forming point S; divide the distance between points Fand 
S into two equal parts, forming point T. 

18th. From point M on line LM, draw hne to point T on line D 
forming line MT. 

19th. Place the single shoulder measure, using division S. Sh. No. 
4, on line B, so that the point of scale will intersect the line MT 
forming point U, sweep from pnt. O on line D, so as to inter- 
sect the line B, forming point V. 

20th. Draw Hne from point V to F, forming the line VF, apply the 
comer of scale to point U on line MT, the outer edge of scale 
touching point V and draw line along smaU edge of scale, form- 
ing point W on line YF. 

21st. From point L on line B lay off measure No. 7, (prolonged 
waist measure) forming point X. 

22nd. Square Hne from line B at point X, forming line XT. 

23rd. From point X lay off on line XY ; breast measure using di- 
vision Br. No. 1 and mark at stars forming point T. 

24th. Finish back according to diagram No.l, (that is from L to 
N, from N" gradually intersecting the line MT, fi'om U to W, 
from W to Y intersecting point 2. 

25th. Prolong line B and lay off from point L, the full length of 
coat (as measure No. 8) forming point Z. 

26th. Square from line B at point Z, the line Zl and lay off on 
the same from point Z, same distance as from pnt. X to Y, form- 
ing point AA, di-aw Hne fi'om Y to AA, allow on side of lines 
drawn | inch for plaits as show on diagram 1. 

27th. From point W lay off ^ic in. on line VF toward point G, 
forming point BB and draw line J inch in advance of point BB 
to point I on line Gl. 

28th. Measure distance from pnt. O on line D to point R on Hne 
P3, apply the same on line BF fi*om point F, forming pnt. C C. 

29th. Place the tape firmly on the point CC with left hand, chalk 
and tape on pnt R with right hand and sweep toward the back, 
this sweep being correct height of shoulder. 

30th. From point R on line P3 lay of 3/^16 in. toward Q, forming 
point DD and fi'om R 1 in. on aforesaid curved line; finish the 
shoulder point according to dgnn. 1. 

31st. Apply tape from the point U on line MT, to the point N, 
lay oft' from DD on sweep for shoulder, the distance thus attained 
forming point EE. 

Remarks to sweep in Article 16. In order to make sweeps it is ne- 
cessary to place tape firmly on point K (on Line Gl) with left hand placing 
chalk and tape [holding the same between thumb and first finger of right 
hand] firmly on point D. 

Remark to sweep in Article 19. The rule for drawing the sweepi 

from Q and R is also to be observed in drawing this one. 

Remark to point 2. It is not absolutely necessary to intersect the 
point 2 where it would spoil the shape of back. For erect postures hollow 
back as shown by dotted lines on diagram No. 1. 



8 

32nd. Draw line from EE to CC on line BE and finish armhole 
according to diagram. 

83rd. Measure width of back part on line Gl and apply the a- 
mount thus attained to point I on line Gl ; proceed backwards, 
the hip measure adding | inch, forming point FF. 

34:th. Finish side body, as shown on dgrm. 1, by drawing line 
from BB, intersecting point 2 on hne BF, and gradually inter- 
secting pnt FF, prolonging the line thus formed 3 inches below 
the line Gl. 

35th. Measure from pnt. W to Y, applying the amount thus at- 
tained from point BB to the prolonged Hne forming point GG. 

36th. Measure from pnt.FF to point GG, the amount thereby at- 
tained allow on line D from point 1 downward, forming pnt. HH. 

37th. Draw line from point GG, intersecting point HH, forming 
line GH. 

38th. Change position of point K to II, allow the same distance 
from point I to II, as from I to K, measuring distance from line 
D to point I and allow on line BF from the line D, adding J inch 
forming pnt. KK also draw lines from K.K to II and fiom KK to I 

39th. From the line GH lay off | in. on the line di'awn from KK 
to 1 1, forming point LL and from line GH lay off' | inch on line 
drawn from KK to I, forming point MM. 

40th. Draw line from point GG to LL and take out the V 
(Sugon) distance, between I and 1 1, as shown on dgrm. 1. 

41st. Application of waist measure No. 10, having allowed the 
hip measure with \ inch added, place the sum of the allowance 
(whatever it may be) fi'om the point K on the line Gl, towai'd 
front allowing \ waist measiu^e, adding 2 J inches for seams 
forming point NN. 

42nd. In like manner from line B, on line BF, extend \ breast 
measure, adding 2^ inches for seams forming point 00. 

43rd. Square from point Q on Hne P3 and extend Ye of \ breast 
measure, using division Br. No. 2, forming point PP. 

44th. Draw line from PP to 00, forming Hne PO and from 00 to 
NN, forming line NO the intersection of the lines NO and GH 
forming point 4. 

45th. From point K on Hne Gl, lay off on line PO, heighth of 
gorge (No. 6) forming point (^(^. 

46th. Square line from P3, so as to intersect pnt. (^(^ on Hne PO 
and shape gorge and front, according to dgrm. 1 ; this furnishes 
the front of PRINCE ALBERT COAT with extra lapell. 

47th. From line Gl at point K, square Hne KB downward and al- 
low fi'om the aforesaid point on line KR (using division Br. No. 
3) breast measure, forming point RR. 

48th. From line KR at point RR square line RS. 

49th. From point RR lay off on Hne RS, hip measure adding 1 j 
inches, forming point SS. 

50th. From point GG on line GH allow 1 in. forming point TT. 

Remark to point 2, Article 34. When the point 2 is not intersected 

in shaping back, it is not to be intersected in shaping side body. 



9 

51st. Draw line from point TT intersecting point SS forming 
line ST. 

62nd. Draw line from TT to MM. 

53rd. Draw line from MM to point 4 and shape according to 
dgrm. 1. 

54th. From point 4 on line GH extend 2J inches, this allowance 
being for lapell and facing on skirt, forming point 5. 

55th. Square from line GH at point 5 line. Marked front of 

Prince Albert Skirt. 

56th. Measure distance between points Y and AA on back skirt, 
applying the same from point TT on line ST, forming pnt. UU. 

57th. Sweep from the pnt. D on Hue A and the point UU on lin© 
ST, so as to intersect line KR, forming point VY, (the afore- 
given rule for making sweeps, is to be observed in drawing this 
one) from YV on line KR allow | in. downward, forming point 6. 

58th. Square from hue KR at point 6, line 6B, and finish bottom 
of skirt according to diagram 1, this giving correct skirt for 
Prince Albert. 

59th. Double breasted Cutaway Skirt; from pnt. GG allow ^ in. 
forming point 7. 

60th. From point RR on line RS, hip measure adding 1 in. form- 
ing point 8. 

61st. Draw line from pnt. 7 intersecting pnt. 8 on line RS form- 
ing hue 8 A from pnt. 7, intersecting pnt. MM, from MM inter- 
secting point 4. 

62nd. Apply measure from Y to 9A and lay off the same on line 
8A, fi'om point 7, forming point 9. 

63rd. Sweep from pnt. D on line A and pnt. 9 on line 8A, intersect 
line KR, forming point Y3 ; prolong sweep toward the front. 
The allowance for double breasted cutaway from 4 to 5, depends 
entirely on style of coat, as that regulates the width of lapell. 

64th. From pnt. 00 on line BF, allow 3 in. forming point WY^, 
taking out sugon as shown on dgram. 1. After shaping top of' 
lapell. which depends entirely on taste of customer or style, 
allow from pnt. XX 3 in., forming point 10. The above allow- 
ance for lapell is is given to coat on dgrm. 1. 

65th Draw line fi'om pnt. 10, intersecting pnt. WW" and point for 
width of lapell, (whatever it may be) on line GH, forming skirt 
according to style. 

66th. Single br. cutaway skirt. The difference between this and 
D.B.C.S. is that the point GG is the height of skirt. 

67th. From point RR on line RS, allow hip measure adding j 
inches, forming pnt. 11. 

68th. Draw line from pnt. GG intersecting pnt. 11, observe same 
rule to finish skirt as given for D.B.C.S. and make width of la- 
pell according to style; observe to take out Y (Su9on) as shown 
on dgrm. 1, marked Su9on for S. B. C. 

In each case shape back of skirt and forepart as shown on dia- 
gram 1. For back of skirt see dotted line. 



io - 

RULES TO DRAFT COLLAR. 

Mark point Kl at that part of front, where turn-over of lapell 
shall end. Point K2 at gorget (in like manner) and draw line K3. 

Draw line 31 one inch back of line K3. {this giving stand up of 
collar.) Measure distance from K2 (following shape of gorget) 
to Q lay of^ (frompnt. K2) on line 3^ same distance less J inch. 
Allow from 1 J in. to 2 in. for turn down of collar, forming pnt. 
K4: and shape collar according to style of coat. See coat dgms. 

RULES FOR LAPELLE. ^^^sram2. 

1st. Draw line A and lay off on the same vfrom pnt. B) the dis- 
tance between pnts. QQ and 00, forming pnt. C. If a Su9on is 
taken out, the distance from B to C loses the difference. 

2nd. Lay off on line A from pnt. C, distance from pnt. O O to 
4 forming pnt. D. 

3rd. Square Unes from the line A at pnt. B, C & D, forming lines 
Bl, 01 & Dl. 

4th. Lay off on line Bl, | in., forming point E; on line CI, 3 to 
3Jin. forming pnt. F; and on Hue Dl from 2^ to 2| in., forming 
pnt. G. The difference depends on corpulence of person. 

5th. Draw line from pnt. G so as to intersect pnt. F and line Bl 

6th. After shaping top of lapell, (which depends on taste of cus- 
tomer or style) allow width required from 2| to 3 in. forming 
point h and form lapell as shown on dgrm. 

SACK COAT, diagrams. 

For taking measure see Frock Coat Rules. 
1st to 19th see Frock Coat. 

"SOth. Draw line from pnt. V on line B to pnt. F on line D, forming 
line VF; apply the corner of scale to pnt. V on line MT, the outer 
edge of scale touching pnt.V, forming pnt. W on line VF; draw 
line from pnt. W to pnt. I on Hne Gl, forming line WI. 

51st. From pnt. L lay off on line B, full length of Coat forming 
pnt. X. 

22nd. Square line from line B at pnt. X, forming line XY. 

23rd. From pnt. X on line B, lay off on line XY | of i breast meas- 
ure, using division Br. No. 2, forming point Y from line XY at 
pnt. Y, square line YS. 

24th. Divide distance on line WI between pnt. W & line BF into 
2 equal parts, forming pt. V2 and proceed to finish back as shown 
on dgrm; that is from L on line B to N, from N gradually in- 
tersecting lineMT; from U to V2 intersecting W, fi'om Y2 to 
line YS in a gradual manner. This is giving back for straight 
sack. See dgrm. 4. 

For Rules 25 & 26 see rules 28 & 29 of frock. 

27th. From pnt. R on line P3, lay off ^ in. toward Q, going toward 



11 

front, same distance forming pnt. DD and finish shoulder point 
as shown on dgrm. 

For Rules 28 & 29 see rules 31 & 32 of frock. 

30th. Measui'e width of back part on line Gl and appty the 
amount thus attained to pnt. I on line Gl, proceeding backward 
the hip measure adding 1 inch, forming pnt.A2. This gives the 
straight or box sack, for which the Su(;on in side is not taken 
out. See dgrm. 4. For close fitting or body sack observe rule 
33 of frock, for which sucon is taken out. 

"1st. Finish side part as shown on dgrm. 

3^nd. Square the line EE fi'om the line Gl at pnt. K downward 
and allow on line KR from the aforesaid pnt. (using divisionBr. 
No. 3) breast measure, forming pnt. RR from line KR at pnt. 
RR; square the line RS, prolong the same, so as to intersect 
line B, forming pnt. B2; lay off on the line RS from point B2, 
Ve ol ^ breast measure, forming pt. C2 ; measure distance fi-om 
the side of back part (on line Rs) to C2, apply the amount at- 
tained thereby to pnt, RR, laying off on the line RS, the hip 
measure adding 1 inch, for straight sack, (close fitting) only J 
inch) forming pnt. D2, draw line from pnt.A2, intersecting pnt. 
D2 (for straight sack) forming Hne A4, (see dgrm. 4) for close 
fitting sack, from pnt. FF, intersecting point 1)2, forming line 
FD. 

33rd. Measure distance fi'om line D to pt. I, on line Gl, allowing 
the same from line D on line BF, adding J in. forming pt. KK ; 
draw line fi'om KK to K and from KK to I and take out su9on 
as shown on dgrm. 3. 

For Rules 34 see rules 41. 

35 " '' 42 

36 " " 43. 

37 " " 44. 

38 " " 45. 

39th. Square line from line P3, so as to intersect pnt. QQ on line 
PO and shape gorget and front, according to dgrm; the skirt of 
double br. straight front sack is to be formed in the same man- 
ner at bottom as Prince Albert and for cutaway sack, single or 
double breasted, same as single and double breasted cutaway 
frocks; for fly front oversacks, the allowance for lapell is from 3 
to 3i in., according to goods; for dbl. br. oversack, from 3 J to 4 
inches, according to goods. 

Diagram 4 & 5 represents the coats for corpulent persons. 

The allowance (for drafting skirt) on hne RS fi'om point RR. 

(for Prince Albert Coat) hip measure and 1 in. added. For D, 

B. cutaway coat, hip measure adding J in. and from pnt. GG to 

pnt. 7 J in. For single breasted cutaway coat, hip measure only. 

Remark to close fittiug Sack. If the sack is to be a close fittiuf^ ov 
body sack allow from line B on line Gl h iucb forming ])oiut U2 & from 
line YS on line Gl I inch forming point S2 from point V draw line to point 
U2 from U2 1o X also from Y2 to point Y intersecting point 2 & shape as 
shown ou diagram No. 3. 



12 

For sack coats, aUoTving hip measure only. If a su9on 
(v) be taken out of fore part, the same is to be drawn to- 
gether as if the seams were sewn, and the amount that fore part 
laps over skirt, is cut from the same. See dotted Hnes on dgrm. 

DRESS COAT SKIET. ^'' ^'"sr^"^ ^- 

The i-ules for drafting Single breasted Cutaway Skirt are 
to be observed with the following alterations: 

1st. Lay off on line GH, fi^om point GG, J of breast adding | 
inches forming point A. 

2nd. Square from the line GH, at the point A forming Hne 
AB, & lay off on the same from 2 J to 2^ inches foi*ming point B- 

3rd. After giving allowance for lapell (from point 4 to 5) as 
by Prince Albert square from line GH, at point 5 Hne 51 lay off 
on the same from 2^ to 2J inches forming point 1. (The above 
given remark in article 2 is also to be observed. 

4th. Draw line from point B to 1. 

5th. Allow from GG to C J to | inches (this allowance depends 
on corpulency of customer). 

Cth. After laying off' length of skirt which forms point D, place 
tape on point GG with right hand chalk & tape on point D & 
sweep toward front. 

7th. Allow from D to E | inches (see diagram) from E to F | 
of J breast, draw hne fr-om point B to F ct shape according to 
diagram. 

Dia. 7, represents coat for crippled (structures humpbacks), 
for which the following additional measures are to be taken on 
coat (see lig. 2), and can also be used as a basis for all other de- 
formities. Mark points 3, 8, 2^^ and 2b as shown on diagr. 

1., width of shoulder from point 3 (vert.) to point S. 

2., from point 3 (vert.) to point 2-a, 

3., from point 2a to point 2^. 

4,, from point 8 to point 2fi. 

6., blade measiu'e from point 3 (vert.) passing in front of arm, 
underneath the same to 2-^- 

In drafting (as shown on diagr.") the measures are to be ap- 
phed in same manner as taken. The rewai'd for a little care in 
takmg the above measures and drafting according to the same 
(as shown on diagr.) will be a good fitting coat. 
For example: 

1., the width of shoulder (as taken from 3 to 8\ is to be ap- 
plied from point L to U. addinof J inch for seams. 

Eemark to Article 2. For persons having under 40 breast 
measure 2^ to 2 J ; over 40 2i to 2| inches; this also depends on 
style & fashion plafe. 

Kemnrk to Sucous. If the sueons are not taken out as shown on 
diagram see that the skirt at that part is well shrunk. 

"Remark to article 7. For corpulent person, allow downward from 
point of § inches. JSee dotted lines. 



13 

2,, the point 2 as shown on back [on diagr.] is found in the fol- 
lowing manner. Find the difference between the measure from 
8 to 2a for example 8 J 

and fi'om 3 to 8 Ij 

the difference being j 

the I of which is to be subtracted from measure No. 2. 
for example 5 

J of difference | 



leaving 4^ 
to be appHed fi'om point L on hne B downwards forming point 
2. Draw hne fi'om point U intersecting point 2 and lay off on 
same from point U, measui-e No. 4 forming point 2a. Lay off 
on line B, [from point 2A measure No. 3, forming point 2B]. 
Draw line fi'om point L to 2b, intersecting 2a, giving shape as 
shown on diagr..; observing from M to N; allow only J (in- 
stead of J inch). 

In order to shape sidebody as blade, apply blade measures as 
taken from Q to 2a. 

Remark. In order not to have the deformity show too 
plainly, it is necessary to fill out with wadding at blade ;,see 
dotted lines on diagr). 

If the deformity be more on one side, it is necessary to take 
measures of both, and draft according. The deformity at breast 
having no impression on front. 

Dia. 8 represents the coat for stooped structure. The altera- 
tion [see dotted line on dia.] is to be made in the following 
manner : 

Allow fi'om Hne B on line Gl J of distance from point K to 
I. At point L, break off |; at point N, add |; point R being 
correct shoulder point instead of point DD. 

The loss of back part is to be added to sidebody. This altera- 
tion begins when front and back balance are equally increased 
in proportion to increase of back balance. 

SLEEVE. ^^^2^^^ ^• 

Explanation for measuring, drafting and cutting of upper and 
under Sleeve. 

1., Measure distance from the point of back marked "Sleeve" to 
IJ; from the point EE following shape of armhole to the point 
T, marked "Sleeve." Thereby gaining the width of upper 
sleeve. From point T following shape of armhole) to point BB; 
from W of back returning to starting point marked sleeve of 
back; thereby gaining the width of under-sleeve. From the 
point Q to the point T online D, gaining amount to be subtract- 
ed from full length of sleeve. 

2 , Draw line A & B, intersecting point C, apply back as shown 
in dia. that the point L of back part will intersect the point C; 
lay off distance on line B, between point L and line BF; form- 
ing point D. 



14 

3., Apply back part to the line A as shown on diagr. allowing 
the point U to louch line B forming point E, and measure dis- 
tance on line D, of front part between point F on line BF and 
pnt T; allowing same on hne B from point D, forming point F. 
4., Square fi'omline B at pnt E, F & D the Unes £1 Fl and Dl. 
5., Apply the width of upper sleeve fi'om point F on line B, in- 
tersecting lin3 El forming point G. 

6., Square line from line E^- at point G forming line G^- 
7., divide distance on line B between point JD and F into two 
equal parts, forming point H; squaring hne fi'om the line B at 
point H lay off on same l|6 of ^ breast less | inch, forming 
point I. 
8., Apply width of under sleeve from point F on line B to I, 
(holding the tape firmly at point I) upwards, so as to intersect 
line El forming point K. 
9., Measure distance between the point G and line Fl on line 
Ql, apply the same from the intersecting point of Unes Gl and 
Fl, so as to intersect line Dl, forming point L. 

10., Sweep from point L and G toward point F, (observing the 
rule for making sweeps). See sweep on diagr. 

11., Draw line from point G on line El to point D on line B, 
dividing same into two equal parts, forming point M. 

12., Square from point M the line Ml and lay off on same, from 
point M, 1|6 of I breast and proceed to finish upper part of 
sleeve according to diagr. Observing in forming the under 
sleeve to intersect points M and I. 

13., Lay off on line B fi'om point F, the remaining length of 
sleeve, forming point N (after performing substraction given 
in article I). 

14., divide distance on line Fl between point F (on line B) and 
line Gl into 2 equal parts forming point O. 

15., Apply scale so that the corner will rest on point N onUne B, 
and the outer edge on point O on line Fl di-awing lines 01 
and Nl; divide distance from N to O into two equal parts, 
forming point P, 

16., Square line from the line B intersecting point P on line 01, 
forming the line PI intersecting point of hues PI and Gl form- 
ing point Q. 

17., Lay off' on line Nl from the point N (on line B) | of J breast, 
forming point R. Remark (This rule is not necessar^' if the 
style or customer demand otherwise). 

18 . From point G to point R draw Hne, and finish shape of 
sleeve according to diagr. 

In cutting the sleeve with two seams, Ih inches is allowed at 
front, as shown on diagr. {hy dotted Ime), forming point S, 
ditto on bottom forming point T; which is afterwards taken 
from under sleeve, and the sleeve hollowed as shown on diagr. 
The allowance for turn-up of facing is from 1 to i inches. For 
corpulent person allow width of under sleeve adding 1 inch 
(which has to be taken out by a sugon) see dotted line on diagr. 



.15 

Rules to be observed by making up coats. 

Dia. 1. Shrink from A to B; stretch, from D to C and from 
F to E. The facing from G to H is to be stretched. For high or 
broad shoulders set giisset in facing (see diagr ). 

Remark V sue on shown from D to C is only used for persons 
haying yery prominent hips. 

Dia. 2. Shrink from C to D; the distance from A to B is to 
be drawn in. 

Dia.3. Shrink distance between A and B and between C and D, 

The foregoing ^rules are to be obseryed in measuring, draft- 
ing and cutting off boj^s and youths clothing. See diagr. A. 



VEST, ^i^^^^^^^' 



Description of measuring, drafting & cutting of yest as sliown 
on diagram No. 10 in fourfold reduced measure. In addition 
to the measure for coat (for vest) take opening of collar full 
length (in front) & full length at hips. 

For rules 1 — 11 See 1 — 11 of coat. 
12th. Divide distance between points I &H into two equal parts 

forming point CK. 
13th. From point CK on line Gl lay off on line B back balance 
measure (No. 3) forming point L, 

For rules 14 See 14 of coat. 
" " 15 " 15 " " 

17th. Use rule 17 of coat to point S. 

18th. From point M on Hue LM draw line to point S on line D 
forming line MS. 

19th. Sweep from point O on line D so as to intersect line B 
forming point Y (see sweep for coat.) square from line B at 
point V so as to intersect line MS forming point W this being- 
width of shoulder of back part. 

20th. Square from line BF so as to intersect the point W form- 
ing line WF. 

For rules 21 See 28 of coat. 
" 22 '' 29 " " 

23rd. From point Q on line P3 lay off on line D full lengtli at 
hips (measure taken) forming point X square from line D at 
point X the line XB. 

24th. Measure distance from point 1 on line D to point I on line 
Gl lay off the same (from the line D) on line BF, forming 



16 

point KK draw line from KK to E & from KKto I & proceed 
to finish back as shown on diagr. that is from point L intersect- 
ing N, allowing | inch from N so Nl gradually intersecting 
point W & from W to KK. 

25th. Lay off on line Gl, (fi'om the line B) same distance as from 
H to CK, forming point Y. 

26th. Draw hne from intersecting point of line s BF, &: B to point 
Y & shape as shown on diagr. 

27th. Lay off on sweep for shoulder from point R same distance 
as from Nl to W forming point EE, draw line from EE to CC 
(on line BE) & finish armhole according to diagr. 

28th. Application of waist measure. Measure width of back 
(from Y to I on line Gl) place the amount attained thereby on 
point K proceeding toward front allowing ^ waist measure with 
2 inches added (for seams') forming point NN. 

29th In like manner from back (on line BE) J of breast measure 
adding 2 inches for seam forming point 00. 

30th. Draw line NO ffi-oni point 00 to NN) . 

31st. Lay off on Hne NO from point Q ''on line P3) the opening 
of collar adding 1 inch (for making up) forming point SI in Hke 
manner full length of vest adding 1 inch. 

32nd. Lay off on sweep for shoulder i from point R 1 inch, form- 
ing point HI. 

33rd. Draw line from point Rl to point SI k shape forepart ac- 
cording to diagr. 

34th. Lay off the width of back (fi'om L to Nl) on hne drawn 
from Rl to SI (from sweep of shoulder) then draw line from 
point SI intersecting shoulder point R, for standing collar al- 
low IJ inches (from line di'awn from SI intersecting R j for turn- 
down of collar & shape collar according to diagr., the shape 
of collar depends entirely on style & taste of customer. 

The allowance for double breasted vest depends likewise on 
style, the one shown on dia. has 2i inches at breast k 2 inches 
at waist. 

Remark. If the vest be cut according to coat measure, take 
off ^^ inch fi'om breast and waist. 

BREAST VEST.^^'Sram II & 12. 

In order t<> draft this vest, the following measures are necessary. 

1st Breast measure, 2nd waist measure, 3rd front balance, 4th 

full length at hip, 5th collar opening, 6th full length of vest. 
1., Draw line A & B, intersecting point forming point A. 
2., From point A lay off on HneB l|i2 of i of breast, foi-ming 

point :C. 
3., Square from the line B at point C, line CD; lay off on same 

from point C l|i2 of ^ breast; forming point D. 
4., Lay oft' on line B from point .\ of J breast measure forming 

point E. 
6., Square fi-om the line B at point E (right and left^ line EE. 



17 

6., Extend online EE from point E (on line B^ l|6 of | breast 

measure forming point F. 
7., Extend on line EE fi'om point E J breast lesR J inch, form- 
ing point G. 
8., Apply corner of square to point C on line B. allo-^ing long 

shank to touch point F fon line EE) draw line along short 

shank, the intersection of short shank and line A forming point 

H (or shoulder point). 
9., Draw line from point D to point H. 
10., Lay off toward back on line EE from point E | of | breast 

forming point I. 
11., Lay off toward back on line EE from point E } breast, add- 
ing I inch, forming point K. 
12., Square fi'om the line EE at point K line KU. 
13., Lay off on the line B from point E, 1|6 of | breast measure 

forming point L. 
14., Square hne from Hne B at point L and lay off on same 1|32 

of 2 breast, forming point M. 
15., Draw line from point D on line CD to point M, and form 

armhole so as to intersect point I on line EE as shown on dia. 
16., Square line from line A at point H, forming line HN and lay 

off on same from point H l|6 of J breast measure, forming 

point N. 
17. , Lay off on line B from point N on line HN, fi'ont balance 

measure, forming point O. 
18., Square from the line B at point O line 00, (right and left) 
19., Extend on line 00 from point O J of waist measure adding 

J inch, forming point P. 
20., Toward back layoff on line 00 from point O l|i2 of | waist 

measure, forming point Q' 
21., Extend on line 00 from line KIT l|24 of | waist measure, 

forming point B. 
22., Lay off on line 00 from point K, J of waist measure, adding 

^ inch, forming point S. Divide distance between points S and 

Q, into 2 equal parts, forming point 1. 
23., Draw lines from point I on line EE to points Q and S (on 

line 00. 
24., Sweep from the point H and centre 1, so as to intersect the 

line KU, forming point T. 
25., Square Hne, from the line KU at point T, forming line TT. 
26., Lay off on line KU from point T 1|6 of | breast measure 

less J inch forming point U. 
27., Sq are from line KU at point U line UU, and lay off on 

same from line KU, 1|6 of | breast measure, forming point V. 
28., Square line from line UU at point V and allow ^ inch on 

same, forming point W. 
29., Lay off from point W (so as to intersect the Hne TT], the 

width of shoulder from point H on Hne A to point D on Hne CD ; 

forming point X. 



18 

30., Draw line from V to X and shape back and armliole as 
shown on diagr. 

31., Draw line from point G on line EE to point P on line 00, 
form line PG and lay off on same from point N, the collar open- 
ing of vest full length of same, observing to add one inch for 
making ui^. 

32., Lay off on line B from point N on line HN, the full length 
of vest at side, allowing 1 inch, forming point Y. 

33., Square from line g at point Y, hne Yl, so as to intersect 
lineKU. 

34., Draw line from point K on line KXJ, to point R on line 00, 
and finish vest according to diagr. 

35., Eor vest without collar apply the point 'SV of back part to 
the point H of front part, letting point X [of back] and D (of 

- front] meet. Extend from point U of back | inch and shape as 
shown on diagr. 11. 

Remark. To cut breast vest for persons, having over 40 in- 
ches breast measure, it is necessary to take single shoulder 
measure and allow on line B fi'om point A \ of the same [in- 
stead of \ l3]-oastj forming point E. 

RULES FOR MAKING UP OF VESTS. 

Not being able to give so explicit an explanation for the mak- 
ing up of vests by means of Dia. as for coat & pants I resort to 
the following mode. 

The following rules are of great benefit to cutters [who cut 
my system] when strictly oliserved by tailor in making up the 
vest. 

1st. For vests with collar. Before baistiug forepart to buck- 
ram (or stiffing) it is necessary to shrink both forepart ».\: buck- 
ram at breast also stretch both [at armhole] fi'om 4 to 5 inches 
below point EE [toward EE] particular attention is to be paid 
in pressing seam [which is formed by su9on that is taken out 
for persons having extra stout breast c^ small waist] so as not 
to destroy breast formed thereby [which is often the case in 
making up] & in which case it would be unnecessary to take 
out the same as the aims of the cutter are then thwarted. It is 
also uecessarj^ to use same precaution in the treatment of suooiv 
which is taken out at side [as shown on diagr. 12] for corpulent 
persons. This SU90H being taken out at pocket it is necessary 
to sew pocket seam and drive fullness, to correct 
position afterward ripping pocket opening again. 
It is not necessary to allow much spring at side for cor- 
pulent persons as they are almost fiat at hips but it is often 
necessary to set a gusset from 3 to 4 inches long in back as 
shown on diagr. by the vertical line. 

As a precaution against having the collar put on too long 
[which is often the case] it is to be cut \ inch shorter the length 
required in all cases the collar is stretched before putting on. 



-19 

VEST WITHOUT COLLAR 

The difference between tliis and the above is that a sn^on is 
taken out at shoulder (as shown on diagr. marked breast vest) 
which eases the making up, it is not absohitely necessary to 
take out the same in which case both foredart k buckram is to 
be well stretched at neck & the centre of shoulder well shrunk 
also observe the above given rules. 

The tailor can also greatly assist fit of vest, by having an 
idea or description of customer. 

DESCRIPTION FOR MEASURING DRAFT- 
ING, AND CUTTING OF PANTS-^^^s-^^"^ '^- ^ '^- 

The correctness in taking the measure of pants is just as im- 
portant as in taking the measure for coats & is to be performed 
in the following manner. 

Place the tape at the side \ inch above the hip k measure. 

1st. To knee. 

2nd. From knee to buttom [or full length]. 

3rd. Inside length. 

4th. Waist measure. 

5th. Hip '' • • 

6th. Butt or seat " 

7th. Width of knee. 

8th. « '' Bottom. 

After taking these measures proceed to draft in the following 
manner. 

1st. Place the square on the edge of cloth in such a manner that 
the short shank lies crosswise & the long shank lengthwise. 

2nd. After marking the square (which gives the lines A & B 
partly] prolong line B to length sequired adding 1 inch for 
turnup [or facing]. 

3rd. Lay off on line B from point A, distance from waist to 
knee (as meas. No. 1) forming point E thence full length (as 
m as. No. 2), forming point F. 

4th. Lay otf on line B from point F, inside measure (as meas. 

Eemark to measure No. 3. It is necessary in order to take this 
measure correctly to use the instrument shown on dia. 36 if you cannot 
avail yourself of the same strictly observe to place the tape exactly & firm- 
ly in the centre of crotch. 

Remark to measure No. f?. In taking the butt [or seat] measure see 
that the customer places his feet firmly tsgether & measure over stoates 
part. 
Measures 9. 10 & 11, to be taken for tight or close fitting pants. 

9. Thigh measure. 

10. Calf 

1 1. Width of leg below calf. 



20 

No. 3), forming point D. 

5th. Form point C (or hip point] 3 inches below waist line, A; 
this done proceed to square from the line B at point C the line 
C, at point D the Hne D, at point E, the line E. k at point F 
the Hne F. 

6th. Lay off on the Hne D fi'om the line B, | of | butt or seat 
measure (as meas. No. 6) forming point G. 

7th. From poini G J of J butt measure less J inch, forming 
point H. 

8th. From point G ^ of | but measure froming point I. 
9th. From point I l|i2 of J butt measure forming point K. 

10th. Divide distance between points D tk K into two equal 
parts forming point L. 

11th. Lay off on line F fi'om line B, ^iiS of | butt measure 
forming point M. 

12th. From point M | of | butt measure forming point X. 

13th. From line B J butt measure less J inch forming point O. 

14th. Divide distance between points O & Minto two equal parts 
forming point P. 

15th. Draw lines from point D on liae B to point M on line F 
fi'om point G on line D to point X on hne F prolong the same 
to line A (This forming balance line G of forepart) from pouit 
L on line D to point P, on line F, prolong the same to Une A, 
(this forming balance Hne L of back pai'ts J k irom point I on 
line D to point on line F. 

16th. Divide cHstance between points I & H on line D into three 
equal parts forming points 2 «i: 3. 

17th. Lay oft* on Hne C from balance line G J of A hip measure 
adding h inch [^toward iront ) forming point 5. 

18th. AHow on Hne C fi'om point 5 (^toward side) same distance 
as fi'om H to 3 (on Hne D) forming point 6. 

19th. Lay oft' on line C fi'om point 5 (^toward side ) | hip meas- 
ure forming point U. 

20tli. Lay off on line A fi-om balance iine G, J of i waist measure 
forming point R [for right forepart]. 

21st. From point E, extend same distance as fiom H to 3 form- 
ing point S [for left forepart]. 

22ud. Lay oft' on line A from point point S [toward side] J waist 
measure forming point T. 

23rd. Draw lines from R to 6 thence to H (,on line D] from S to 
5 thence to 3 [on Hne DV 

24th. In order to deiive correct position of points \{ k 1 apply 
the square in such a manner that the point i^or corner] of square 
touches the point H on Hue D the outer edge of long shank 
touching point S on Hne A & mark the outer edge of short 
shank which gives the correct position of points K eV' I see dia. 
No. 13 KK c^ n. 

25th. Draw line fi-om point T on line A to point X c>n li^^ D. 

26th. Finish crotch by drawing curved Hues from front of left foi^e- 



21 

part to point KK observing to allow a space of i inch to inter- 
vene oblique & curved lines, from front of right forepart to 
point I inch in advance of point II as shown on dia. No. 13 

27th. Draw line from point KK so as to gradually intersect the 
line E, (or knee line] also fi'om point | inches in advance of 
point II in like manner to line E. 

28th. Draw line from point T on line A to point D on line B in- 
tersecting point U [ on line C). 

29th. The inside seam loosing J inch or more at crotch allow the 
loss at bottom as shown on fig. No. 13. 

SOtli. The position of point 8 is found by dividing distance from 
a to T on line A into two equal parts & allowing one of the 
same less J inch downward from point S draw line from point 
T to point S, this giving new position of line A after which the 
foreparts are cut, having thus finished drafting the foreparts 
proceed to cut the same. 

31st. After cutting the same it is necessary to cut dress from 
right forepart (as shown in dia. No. 13 marked dress) .If the cus- 
tomer dresses right, (which is often the case) the dress is to be 
cut from the left forepart. 



BACK PARTS. ^®® diagram 6 



Apply the foreparts to the remaining cloth so as to leave a 
space of from 4 to 5 inches at top & from 2 J to 3 J inches at bot- 
tom after placing the foreparts in this position prolong the lines 
A, C, D, E, & F also balance Hne line L, (E & F) on both sides 
A & C toward yourself. 

1st. Lay off on prolonged line A fi-om balance line L J waist 
measure adding 1 inch forming doint V. 

2nd. Sweep from the point V, so as to intersect the balance Hne 
L, the doint of intersection being correct height of backs, in or- 
der to draw sweep i:)lace the tape with left hand on point L on 
line D the chalk & tape held between thumb & forefinger of 
right hand on f)oint V. 

3rd. Draw line from point V to height of backs at line L, k 
curve the same from 3 to 5 inches as shown on dia. No. 14 in 
dotted lines. 

4th. Draw line from height of backs to point II on line D. 

5th. Prolong the corrected line D <fe lay off on the same from 
point KK l|i2 of ^ butt measure, forming point W. 

6th. Curve backs at croutch in proportion to forparts. 

7th. Lay off on prolonged line E at inside seaui l|i2 of J buti 
measure less \ inch, forming point X. 

8th. Measure width of knee of foreparts & apply the amount 

Remark. The foreparts remain in this position until backs are ready 
for cutting. 



22 

attained thereby from point X (toward side) allowing width of 
knee, adding 1 inch for seams forming point Y. 
9th. Measure width of bottom of forepart & subtract ihe same 
from the full width of bottom after adding 1 inch (for seams) the 
remainder is to be divided into two equal parts. 
10th. From point P allow one of the sums attained by the division 
.to the right & the other to the left, forming j^oints CK & KG 
''see dia. No. 14). 
11th. Measure width of forepart from pomt S to point T, apply 
the sum attained thereby to height of backs, measuring tovrard 
pointV, allowing J of waist measure adding 1 inch (for seam) 
the space remaining is taken out by a Y, (su9on) as shown in 
dia. No. 14. 
12th. Draw line from point Y on prolonged Hne A to point Y on 

prolonged Ihie E. 
13th. Measure width of left forejDart 3 inches above Hne D & pro- 
ceed toward side allowing | seat measure adding 2i inches (for 
making u])) forming point F. 
14th. Finally finish shape according to dia. No. 14, k cut 
the same. 

The shape of w^aistband is shown by fig. No. 17 the allowance 
is I waist measure adding 1 J inches. 

For practice use the following measures, 

1st to knee 23 5th Hip 34 

2nd full length 42 Cth Butt or seat 36 

3rd inside " 32 7th Knee 20 

4th waist 32 8tli Bottom 19 

Dia. 15 extra corpulent structure (eaiied pot 

belly). 
A., Lay off on line B from point G to H, and fi-om j^oint F to 
O on line F J of butt or seat measure less | inches (instead of ^). 

B., The aforesaid hne C (or hiphne] is formed from 4 to 
4 J inches below hne A [instead of 3 inches). Lay off on line C 
from balance hne G, J of J hip measure adding | inch (instead of 
^ inch] forming point 5. 

C, At pomt S (on line A] lay off the h distance between A and 
T [or more if requested by customer) upwards, [see dia.). To 
gain the point Y, lay off" on prolonged line A fi'om balance line 
L, J of waist measure, not adding the inch as it is not necessary 
to cut out a sucoi]). Li applying the butt measure allow 3 in- 
ches for making up; forming point Z; for waistband see dia. 18. 

SPUING BOTTOMS. 

Shown on dia. 16 Change construction of forepart as shown 
by dotted lines, allowing for width of backs as crotch, lji2 of ^ 
butt measure, less h inch from KK, forming point W. For these 
we use measures No. 9, 10, 11 as extra measures given in dis- 

Remark to article 11. If the remainder be 1 ineli only h iiieh is to b* 
taken oxit by sui^ou as the se^ms consume the other half. 



23 

cription for measuring of pants. Allow for seams by measure 
No. 9 1 J inch and by bvitt or seat measure if very tight, 2 inches 

ALTERATION FOR THE DIFFERENT 

SHAPED LEGS, 

as shown on dia. by dotted lines. 

1-, Dia. 19 & 20 show alteration for crooked legs, with knees, 
bending toward the inside, (called knock knees), if very crooked 
the alteration is | inches at every part. 

2., Dia. 21 & 22 show alteration for the opposite structure, or 
crooked legs, with knees bending toward the out side (called 
borro legs). The alteration is also j inch, when very crooked. 

3., Dia. 23 k 24 show alteration for legs with feet turned to- 
ward outside. The alteration being from J to | inches, accord- 
ing to extent of deformitj-. 

4., Dia. 25 k 26 show alteration for legs turned toward inside 
The alteration being same as in article 3. 

6., Dia. 27 k 28 show alteration for persons having extra large 
generative organs. I'he alteration is also in proportion to 
size. 

6., For i^ersons with prominent hips; the line A forms waist line. 

Rules to be observed by tailor in making 

up pants. 

Dia. 29 k 30. Represent the so called straight pantaloons. By 
these is to be observed that the distance of left forepart from A 
to B, is to be w^ovked a little short, and distance from C to D of 
right forepart is to be stretched; slightly stretch both from A 
downward, 'as shown on dia. 29). The backparts are to be 
slightly stretched from A to B [see dia. 30.] 
Dia. 31 k 32 represent pants for corjmlent persons, observe the 
same rules in treatment of distance from A to B and from C to 
D (given for dia. 29]. Roundness or curved part between E & 
F, of both [right and left] foreparts is to be driven in, so as to 
liave the edge perfectly straight; the distance from A downward 
is to be treated the same as rule given for dia. 29. The backs 
are to be set in short from A to g [see dotted lines on dia. No. 
1.5] observe the same rules as given for dia. 30 for distance 
from A to B- 

Dia. 33 k 34. Spring bottoms. The distance from A to B and 
from C to D is also to be treated as rule given for dia. 29; from 
A downward well stretched. The distance from A to B of backs, 
is to be well. stretched, also from A to E and from C to D. The 
distance between E and F, and D and F, are to be treated ac- 
cording to rule given by distance from E to F of dia. 31. 

Remark .AH pants are to be shrunk on the balance line G. 
see dia. 35. 



Measures to cut ready-made 
clothing for men, bojrs & youths. 



Breast 


Waid 


HipM. 


Front j 
balance 


24 


23 


5^ 


15 


26 


25 


53 


153 


28 


26 


6 


16 


30 


28 


62 


172 


32 


292 


7 


182 

1 


34 


31 


'■ 


1 
20 i 


36 


32 


7. 


203 j 


38 


34 


8^ 


n \ 


40 


37 


83 


211 


42 


39 


9 


213 I 


44 


41 


92 


22 j 

1 


46 


43 


101 


292 


48 


45 


103 


23 



balance 
132 
14 



161 
172 
191 

20 

201 

202 

202 

203 

211 

212 



S.Sh. 
162 
18 
191 
203 
222 
241 
26 
271 
232 



Sleeve. 
22 
24 
26 
28 
30 
81 
SU 
82 
321 



203 i 33 

31^ I 33i 

322 ! 3^ 

i 

33 j 34J 



3!r. gwoet^et's 



&: 







ZUSCHIVEIDEKUNST. 



(^x^U aufl«0e. 



Snffrumenf ^o. 36, ^rcb 35 genfe. | ^ooben Scafe $3.00. 



5rutorl[irlc ^Igenten : 
$. @. ©^merbtfeger, ' a ^^. ^loefc^, 

SBudy^anblung, ^,^ 748 Gte ©trafee. 

9'^o. 71 5rt)eiuie ^I. 



gn^ttfts-'^cr^ctc^mfi 



S3ef(^rei6unci be§ scales ---._. (ggite 4 
Sefc^reibung be§ DJ^aaBne^men^, ber Seii^nung unb 

3ufd)nitte5 be§ 9toc!e§ (Dia. 1). - - . 5_io 
^vaqen, LapeU, [Dia. 2]. ----- - 10 

^adMod [Dia. 3]. - 11 unb 12 

9to(fe fiir cor|)uIente Seute [Dia. 4 unb 5J. - - - 12 

(S(^ooB fiir 5rQc!=9f?ocf [Dia. 6]. - - - - - 12 unb 13 
3locfe fur Derfrup|)e(te 33auart [Dia 7]. - - 13 unb 14 

9?od fiir borgebogeue SteEuug [Dia. 8]. - - - - 14 

5(ermel [Dia. 9J, 14 unb 15 

Sefonbere 9tegeln beim 5(ufarbeiten [Dia. 1, 2 & 3]. 15 unb 16 
2Be[te (Dia. 10) ----- - 16 unb 17 

S3ruftrt)efte [Dia. 11 & 12] • - - - - 17—19 

33ear6ettung ber 3Befte mit unb o^ne .^ragen - - 19 unb 20 
33ef(i)rei6ung be» DJ^aaBne^meuy, ber S^itfinung unb be§ 

3uf*nitte§ ber ©ofe (Dia. 13 & 14) - - 20—23 
2)icf6ducf)e (Dia. 15). Spring Bottoms (Dia. 16). - - 24 
(Sriduterung unb ^bdnberungen ber §ofe fiir Derfc^iebene 

©tellungen ber ^eine - 24 

S^egeln beim ^(ufarbeiten ber §ofe - - - - - 25 

Measui'es to cut ready-made clothing for men, boys 

and youths, - - - - (Snglifc^e ©eite 24 



^cri^tigungciu 

Seite 10, 9lrt. 2. Stfe:"2e3e an] Ctnie B" oc. | ©eite 21, STrt. 19. gefe: ftatt Sinie 3, "Sinie C" 
" 21, "18. " "9lo4 $untt 3." I " 24, b, (ate 3eile) 2efe: con ber 

balance Slnie "G" (latt L. 



^cvUfOti, 



gorti($ritt nnb 35erbcffevimg fenn^eic^ent beina^e jebe ,5?imft unb 
2Biffenicf)aft. ^ie ^i^iWi^eibefunft fteljt im JBercjIeic^e gu benfetben 
md)t 3uruc!. (Sein einigen 3a(}ren ui)on tciirbe ha» aftgemeine 3>er(an= 
gen lout, nadj einem auf @rimb(id)feit unb ^-praris geflii^jtcn uJSerte 
biefer '^rt. 

'Xer 5(utor iraat e? nun, bem 53ublihim ein 2Ber! ^u unterbreiten 
unb gibt fid) ber ^offnung bin, boB bafjclbc beffen 5Iutforberung fle= 
nucienb befunben U)crbe, 33ei befien 33carbeitun^ ^ot er ee ?;um 3icle 
c^efe^t, in einem bannoni|d)en @an,^en ail bie neueten 5?erbelleningen 
^ufammen ,^u ftcllen, unb s^gleictj ein gtin^lirf) neuca unb |)ro{ti[cbe» 
23erfa^ren ber 3n|d)neibe!uuft ^n liefern,^ tueldieg hii^er unb fiir %xi' 
fanger leicbter gu evlernen, unb gubem faBJicf)er alg Diele anbere i[t. 

3^er ^lutor beQn[pru(f)t fiir feine 51bl}anb(ung, 53erbe]"ferun(:i, ino 
Tiid)t Uebertegenbeit iiber auDere iBcrte biefer &rt in nadiftebenben 
^ata a(§: medjanifc^e unb finnbi(t)lid)e gorm be§2Berfeg; (5infad)beit 
unb anjiebenbe i^orm; fortfd)reitenbe unb ratffenfcbafilid)e 53el}anbiung 
be§ ^toffeg; ^eutlidjfeit unb .^Uirje ber (grfldrungen; ^oliftdnbigteit 
unb ©enauigleit in 53cbanblunci ber neueu unb Dcrbcfferten Cperation^ 
93letbobe; ^^iir.^e unb ^ereinfai^ung ber Dtegcln unb enblic^, ber 3a^l 
ton 3eid)nungen, Uieldie mit befonberer ^Uifmerffamfeit in ^Bejietjung 
auf beren prattifc^en @ebrauc^ unb DiuBen bcarbeitet unb beren 5in* 
mcnbung fiir biefe ©efdidftsbvancbe bered)net ift. 

^eine ^nftrengung rourbe gefpart, uni ein einfad)e^, tuiffenfcbaftii(^e5 
Ieid)tfaBlicbe§ unb tionjldnbige^, fiir ben ®efd)dft^mann foroobi a(» roie 
ben 3d)uler [5Infdnger] au§reid]enbe5 3t}ftem auf^ufteflen, babei nid)t 
iiberlaben mit unnott)igen 2;beorien unb bennod) bie ir)irtlid)en 55erbef= 
ferungen ber praftifcbcn unb braud)baren ^rt in regelmdBiger unb 
jufammenfaffenber 2i3eife ^u bebonbeln. 

3n roie raeit tiiefer (^nbjmed erreicbt njurbe, moge ber inteHigente 
(Bcbiiler unb erfaf)rung^reid)er 3"fcb"t^iber felbft entfcbeiben. 



»ef4)tcibmi9 be^ SCALES, [maai^taht^,] 
WiaaMiah [Scale] ^o. 1. 

1., finben Voix 58ercd)nung 6e?ei(^net S. Sh. No. 1, [single shoulder 
No. 1] iDelc^e bet ber mit "front" be^eidjneten 2ink an^dngt unb Don 
9^0. 16 big 42 gd^It; biefelbe tctrb benu^t urn bie £'inic D feft^uftetlen. 

2., finben mir am (Snbe be^ scales 33erecf)niing S. Sh. No. 2 [single 
shoulder No. 2] iDon 16 bi§ 42, tDelc^e jur geflftetlung beg ^un!teg 
E an 2inie A benii^t ti^itb. 

3., finben iDir 2 Serec^nungen mit HMD [hip measure division | 
bejeidjnet. Siefelben f angen bei ber rait bem ^Bovte "front" be^ei(^= 
neten ^inie an; bie Ite ^bt()eilung Don 1 bi» 6 in DoIIen S^Uen, bie 
2te mit biefer poraleU laufenb unb in tleineren Soblen Don 2 big 6 
lautenb, meldje benii^t raerben ben $imft I feft^iiftelien. 

4., finben mir ^erecfjnung Br. No. 1 [breast (53ru[t) No. 1] Don 20 
big 60; Diefelbe beginnt bei Der mit 3 3ternen bc^cidiiieteni^inie unter 
5Bere(i)nung BD be;eid)net, unb mirb gebvaudit, bie obere unb untere 
2Beite bes ©intertf)eiley, fomie ben '^?^_untt O auf I'inie ^ feU^uftetlen. 

5., finben mir bie mit S. Sh. No. 3 [single shoulder No. 3] bejeicf)^ 
nete Serediaung Don 16 bi» 42, reeldjc baju bient, ben ^untt P auf 
Sinie D feftjuftellen. 

6., finben mir bie mit BI> [back division] bejeidjnete 5Berecf)nung 
Don 4 bi» 15, meld)e ba^u bient, ben ^rnitt S auf !i!inie D fcU^uftellen. 

Scale 5to- 2. 

1., finben trir bie mit S. Sh. No. 4 [single shoulder No. 41 Don 16 
big 42 bejeidjnete 53ered)nung, meldie geluaudit mirb ben '^^untt U 
[ober <Sd)ulterbreite] feftjuftellen. 

2., finben mir bie mit BR. No. 2 [breast (i^ruft) No. 21 be^eidmetc 
abtbeihmg Don 10 big 60; biefclbe bilbet legHldre 3ediftcl'unb 2^ritle( 
[6ths & 3rds] unb mirb ba5u gcbraud)t [mittelft ben 3edineln] hen 
$unft PP feftjuftellen; ferner um bie untere ^reite beg ^^intertbeile^ 
bei Oarfrbde ober (ead=Ueber^iel)ern mittelft ben Xritteln feft^uftellen. 

3., finben mir bie mit BR, No. 3 [breast ('^lufti No. 3] be^eidjnere 
^ered)nung Don 20 bie 60, melc^e baju bient, ben iUmft RR au^ J^^inie 
KR feft'^uftellcn. 

3nr 5.>crbeutltd)ung beg ^Dftemg bient ba^ 51lpbabet. 

Sucon [^lu^fdmitt] ift bcraucsunehmen. 

Gusset [3midcl] ift cinuifeUen. 
^ie'^(b= ober_Umdnberungen fiiib burdi punftirte \^inien angemertt 
C^inf ad) fdn-affirte iHnicn bebeutcn '^luvjieben. 
^oppclt fc^raffirte i^inicn bebcutcn (>inbiigcln. 



:3ufd[)nttte$ be^ ^ode^, loie auf ^igur 1 in 
natuvUdjer (Brofje 31: erfcf)en. 

^Q§ '^[Raai. beffelBen irirb ftet§ iiBer bie 5i^efle genommcn, [ben 
Hebeqie^er auSgenommen, bei meli^em e§ iiber beu Dtocf genommen 
tDtrb] unb gefc^iel)t nuf fotgenbc 2Beife nad) t3Dii)eric;er geftftedung 
foI_aer.bev ^orpert^eile : Man fteUe fiii) I}inter ben ^unbcn, in ber ^rt 
baB man genau auf bie Wiik be§ .ir)intei1opre§ beffeiben [ielit unb fi(^ 
in ciner £'inie mit beffcn ^tiicftreug befinbct. l^ege Die ^^dnbe unter 
bie %x\\K beffeiben ju beiDen eeiten unb falire an benfelben fo loeit 
berunter, bi^^ man ben ^liftenfnocfien erreicfit. 

SBeun ber $iiftenfnod)en gefunL)en, fo fuc^e ben ^al^mirbelfnoc^en 
[vertigo] auf folgenbe SBcife : X-ege bie i^anb genau auf bie 
9}^itter)e5 $ inter lOpfe^, in ben fogenannten ^infd)nitt unb ge()e nai^ 
obradrto bi§ ^um erften I)crDorflet}enben.Qnod)en be§9^iidgra"te^; biefe^ 
ift Der fogcnannte vertigo. SSenn biefe beiben ^nod)en gefunben, 
ne^me feibe unb be;eid^ne felbige genau burd) eiu ^ci^en, fomie 
aud) bie Witk be» O^iidgratca unb ber %aille, foIgenbermaBen : 93^itte 
bes 9^iidgrate5 $un!t 1, ,&iiften!nod)en %nmtt 2, vertigo ^$un!t 3. 
^anu nebme ha^ Maa^ auf foigcnbe ^^eife, toie burdj g-igur 1 bar= 
geftellt : 

1., §iiftenniaat3 [liip measure] tion T'Unft 1 in ber D3litte be» 9tiic!= 
grates auf ber Saille, bi^ ^um $uutt 2 ober ^^iiftenfncdjen. 

2., 53 r b e r e i8 it ft e [front balance] Don ^un!t 3 [vertigo] iiber 
bie ^ruft ^erunter nad; ^^>unil 2 ober .^iiftenfnodjeu. 

3., 9^ u c !^e n = 33 u ft e [back balance] , ^>on $un!l 3 [vertigo] 
uber ba5 <rdjulterb(att '^erunter 3um »J)iiflenfuod}en ^untt 2. 

4., (§ i n f a d) e ^ 3 d) u 1 1 e r nia a B [single shoulder measure] . 
iBon i3untt 3 [vertigo[ iiber bie Sc^ulter nad) Oorn, unter bem ^Irm 
^inburd), nad) ^inten iiber ha^ ©djulterblatt guriid nac^ ^untt 3, 
[vertigo] . 

5., ^ r m e It d n g e [length of sleeve] . 53on $un!t 3 [ vertigo] 
iiber bie 2d)ulter nac^ oorn, bem^)(rm entiang bi» ^um 53allcn ber ijanb 

6., $ a t ^ ft b t) e [heighth of neck], SBon $unft 4 nad) bem §lif= 
ten!nDd)en, ^-[Umft 2. 

7., !J a ill e n 1 d n g e [lenghth of waist], !53on^un!t 3 [vertigo] 
berunter iiber r)en iRiidgrat nad) ^^^unft 5. 

"■iliimcrtimg ^u .'oufteut'nori)en. ^ux Icirfiteren 'Jluffiiibmu-j bci? .NMiftcnlno* 
d)cns bet)ieiit man fid) eiiie^ 03iivte(i<, tDeld)cn man genau iiber be\ i>iifte anlegt. 

^Anmcvfnng ^u Vertigo. ^at eiu 9J^inn eine c\nt pajicnbe 'X'^i'ik an, fo 
tann man bieicn Umftdnbcn an^ bem SBege get)en, inbeni man gcrabe i ,SolI unter 
ber &6[)t ber ill^efte ein 8cid)en marfn. 

'itnmcrfuufl ^n ^|Umtt 4. '-i^d biefcr 3)?aaf3ua()me lege man ha^ SJJaaB 
(tape) burd) ^i(u^iet)en bcffetben, feft an ben Veib. 

'^tnmerfung ^^u 5. Xie I'dngc bee ;'(ermelo l)dngt gdnjlic^ Don bem SBunfdje 
beS yiunben ab." 

?tnmcrfung ^\i ^unft 7. Qi tft nid)t not()mcnbig ba8 3)?aat? ber naturtid)en 
2^aiUenldngc (natural waist) ;;u nelmicn, ha e^S in ber i^orberbufte (front 
balance; einbegriffen ift. '^k oerldngertc 'XaiUc \\t gdnjlid) Don bem 'JJiobc: 
journal ober bem (>3ejd)macfe be§ .kunbcn abl)an'gig. 



8., 55oIIe 9^o(flQnge [full length of coat or skirt] . 55on 

^unft 5 su $un!t 6. 
9., 58ru ft maaB [breast measure] . ©enau liBer bie SBruft imter 

ben '^rtnen ftinburd^, iiber bie Sdiulterbldtter guriicf nad) bet Wxite 

be§ Sftiiifcirateg, oftne baB man bie eit^ene Stellung Winter bem ^unben 

mit einer anberen t)ertau[d)t. 
10., 2 e i b tt) e i t e [waist measure] . 55on $un!t I gerabe iiber ben 

^iiftentnoc^en ^uriicf na6) ^untt I. 



©el^c nun 3ur 3^i(5nung be» ?Roc!e§ iiber mie folgt : 

2„ SBon ^unft C an Sinie A jiefte ?inie B im 2Bin!eL 

3., Sccie an ben ^urcftfi^nitt?|3un{t C ber Sinien A & B ba§ ediulter* 
maaB [S. Sh.] xva^ e§ and) immer fein mac\, an, unb ba, mo Die 
^roBc fiinie [extra 6ei "front" be3eid)net] fid) befinbet, inad)e ein 
3eid)en, ben $un!t D bilbenb; raeiter nad) Dorn am scale [bei S. Sh. 
No. 2] beseidjne ben ^untt E. 

4., S]on ^unft D auf !^inie A au§, giel^e Sinie B. 

5, 53on J|3unft_E auf 2inie A meffe nac^ ber Sinic D, nnb auf ber= 
felben bie §dlfte be» Sc^ultermaages [single shoulder measure 
No. 4] unb bilbe fo ben ^$unttF. 

6., 55Dn ^unft F auf Cinie D jiel^e eine tt)in!elrec^tc Sinie, t)or= unb 
riidmdrts, bejeidjnet BF. 

7., SSon $unft C an, Iec\e auf ber 2inie B berunter bie 33orberbiifte 
[front balance] an, ['^)laa\i ^o. 2] unb bilbe %^mU G. 

8., 33on "^unft G auf Sinie B au§, ,^iebc bie magred)te 5inie Gl ; ber 
^urd)[c=^uitt^^pun!t Dev iBinien Gl unb D bilbet ben ^'un!t 1. 

9., 55on ^-puntt G an, meffe auf feine Sinie Gl ha^ 6'iiiflenmaaB 

[^0. 1] mit tape ah unb bilbe ben X^nwh H. 
10., Sege ben scale bei ^ninft 1 an ?inie D berart an, baB bie groBe 
^inie (bejeidjuet fi'ontj an benfelben ftopt unD beniine ^Berec^nung 
(begeidjuet HMD) i^-^iiftenmaaB^iBeredinung;) mcfie bie ©ntfernung 
ton ^Hin!t 1 biy H (bie grbBtn-e(?intbeilung beniitjenb), trage bal ba= 
burd) erbaltcne 9iefultat, mittelft ber entfpredicnbcn Sifter, auf ber 
tleineren 53ered)nung auf ber ^inie Gl an, unb f ormire fo ben %'\.mU I. 
11., 2:;[)eile bie ^iftanj oon ^un!t 1 nad^ I in 3mei g(eid)e 3:^eile, fo 

ben 5)jun!t K erf)allcnb. 
12., (Btcllc Don bem ^^un!te I auf ?inie Gl nad) ber 2inie B ju, bie 

!iRiidenbufte (back balance) unb bilbe fo ben 'I'untt L. 
13., 3ift)t^ ^^t^'t ^^'m ').^untte L auf ^inie B, nac^ bem 'I'unfte I auf 
^inie Gl, bie l^inie IL; ber ^urdjl'djuittvpuutt ber i^inien IL unb 
BF bilbct %sm\n 2. 

14., . 5Bon bem ^'un!te L auf ^inieB ^icbe bie iragredite ?iuie LM unb 
ftefle auf berfelben oon bem '-)3un!t L au^, ba^ '^vuftmaaB i,^^o.9^ oer 
(bie S^ered)nung BE. No. 1 beniincnb) unb bil^e ben '^>untt M, bei 
ber auf bem scale mit 3 <Stcrnen be^eidjnete ijinie. i^on bem "ipuntte 
M au^, ftelle nad) oben | 3^11 unb bcjcicbne benfelben mit N. 
15., :^ege ben scale beravt an, ha\i bie ^^inie be^eii^net mit 3 etcmc 
ben ^>un!t D an Cinie A beriil^rt unb ftelle oon bemfelben auf ![?inieD 



ba§ (5Dlaa^9) 35ruflmaa6 ^enmter, (SBere^nutta BR. No. 1 benii^enb) 
unb fo ben ^unft O bilbenb. Saffe ben scale in beifelben l^age uub 
fleflc (bur(^ iBere(^nnng S. Sh. No. 3) ba^ ^(^ultermaa^ (9^0.4) ben 
^unft P bilbenb, fc[t. 

16„ 2ege bie @c!e bc§ scales auf ben ^un!t P aiif Sinic D bcrort an, 
boB bic innerc .^ante ben '^untt L auf ^inie B beriiftrt, unb ^ie^e bem 
f^malen @nbe beg scales entlang, bie 2inie P3; t)erldnc|ere folc^e bi5 
fie bic ?inie A bei ^unft 3 fd^neibet. ^k[)^ con ^unft D auf ^inie 
A unb ^unft O auf ?inie D au§, Si^fel^iige, roii^^t bie 2\im P3 
fcl)neiben unb fo bie ^unftc Q unb R crgeben. 

17., SDJeffe bie ©ntfernung Oon $un!t L auf ?inie B unb Sinie BF unb 
lege ha^ ba burd& erlangte 93kaB (BD SBeredinung benii^enb) Oon 
^un!t F an» auf Sinie T> an, fo ben ^unft S ertjaltenb. Sbeile bie 
4)iftan3 bon $unft S nad) $unft F in jnjei gleii^e Sl^eile unb begeidine 
ben ^^filunggpunh mit T. 

18., 53on $un!t M auf l^inic LM, giefte bie Sinie MT nad) bem ^un!te 
T auf Sinie D. 

19„ ^ege ba§ einfac^e Sd)u(termaaB (single shoulder measure, tier* 
uiittelft ber ^erei^nung S. Sh. No. 4) ben scale in tt)agrecf)ter 6tell. 
ung, berart auf ^inie B an, baB bie ©pi^e be» scales bie ^inie MT 
berii^rt unb bilbe fo ben ^unft U; mad)e einen Sir'telsug Oom ^un!te 
O au§, baB er bie Sinie B fd^neibet, melt^er ^unft al^bann ben ^Uuift 
V bilbet. ^er 3i^'^c^Sug tpirb eben«fa(I^ Don '^>un!t K au§, aU WiU 
telpuntt gemac^t, 

20., 3ie^e eine l^inie t)on ^un!t Y auf ^inie B nac^ bem $un!te Fauf 
:?inie D, be,^eicf)ne biefelbe VF; lege bie (Scfe be^ scales auf ^unft TJ 
ber 2inie MT, bie dufeere ^ante beffelben ben ^unit V berii^renb, 
^ie^e ber furjen ^ante entlaug eine Sinie unb bilbe ben ^un!t W auf 
Sinie TF. 

21 , SBon ^Nunft L auf !^inie B meffe auf berfelben bie ^aitlienldnge 
ah maa^ ^o, 7) unb formire ^unft X. 

22., 33on ^unft X au$ gielje bie Sinie XY. 

23., S5on $unft X auf Sinie B, ftelle auf ber ^inie XY ba« ^ruftmaafe 
[5^0. 9] Dor, [Seredinung BR No. 1 benu^^enb] unb beseid)ne ben 
$un!t Y, an ber auf bem scale mit 3 Sternen bejei^neten ?inie. 

24., SSolIenbe ba§ ^intertj^eil ber ^f^^^ung gemaB ; b. ^. 3^1)^ eine 
iMnfe t)on ^un!t L auf Jinie B na^ ^$untt N, Don N au^ allmd^Iig 
gefcftmeift bis guv l^inie MT, Don U nac^ W, oon W \\a^ Y, ben 'i^untt 
2 berti^renD. 

25., 55erldnqere Sinic B unb meffe auf berfelben bie Dofle 9^oc!ldnge 
ab [^J^aaB ^o. 8 1 ben '^^Umft Z bilbenb. 

26., 3ift)f bon ^unft Z au6 bie tt)agred)te ^inie Zl unb meffe auf ber- 
felben Z aug, biefelbe Gntfernung dg Don X nad) Y, bni $untt A A 
bilbenb; gie^e eine Cinie Don Y nad) AA unb flelle auf jeber Seite J 

Slnmcrfung ju <Pimtt 1 6. Urn bicje ^irfe^iige ju mad)en, l)alte ba« '>})taa% 
mit ber Hnten oanb fcft auf ^^unft K nuf I'mie Gl"; Die ied)te Jponb mit ^reibe 
uub SDJaoB (^roiid)en Xaumen mib ^eipefinfier) feft auf ^unft D unb O. 

5(umerfung jU ^^unft 24. 33ei gormirung be« §intertl)eile* i[t e« nidit 
abfolut notI)rt)enbifl ben ^uiift 2 bcruljien, rrenn e« ba§ ^pintertt)eil DeruiiftaUen 
jo ate. gur bejonbcr« aufredjtc (gtellung ^o^le ba« Jpinteitljeil ani, loie ouf ber 
Beic^nung burd) punftirtc fiinien ju ex\t\)nu 



8 

goU 5erau§ [fie^e gei(5nung.] ^ie | getausficllunc^ ouf Ser tlu6en= 

feite bilben ben ©interl^cil^aden, tDaftrenb bic ©erau^fteUung auf bie 

innete ©eite ,^ur (Sc^oo^falte DertDenbet mxh. 
27., ©telle auf Sinie YF oon ^un!t W na(^_ bent ^un!tc F Jin, 3|i8 

Soil ein, ficje ^un!t BB unb jie^e eine ?inie J 3^11 t)or bem 53un!tc 

BB nad) bem $un!te I auf Sinie Gl. 
28., 2)?effe bie (Sutfernunn ton ^un!t O nacf) R (ber SBorbertJeil 5((f|fel= 

fpi^e) unb [telle fol^e auf bie Sinie BF t)om "ifunfte F au5 Dor, ben 

^un!t CC bilbenb. 
29., ^egt bag ^Jlaag mit ber linfen §anb feft auf ^un!t CC, bie r^te 

§anb mit SJiaafe unb ^reibe feft auf "^unft R unb ^ieje t)on R auc 

einen Sii^'^^tgug nad) IJinten. liefer Qirfeljug bilbet bie ric^tige 

©c^ulterjoje. 
30., 35om ^unfte R auf Sinie P3 ftelle na^ Q ^erauf ^^|i6 Soil, fieje 

^un!t DD unb Don R au§ auf ber Si^^^Hinie ftelle 1 3^11 ^uriicf unb 

formire bie ©d)ulter ber 3cid|nuug gerndfe. 
31., 9J?effe bie 33reite Don ^un!t N nad) bem "ifunfte U unb ftelle bie 

Jicrburd) erjjielte 33reite Don DD nad) EE Jeriiber. 
32., 3iel)e eine ^inie Don EE nad) CC auf Sinie BF unb Doflenbe ba« 

^tmlod) ber 3^Jc^nung gemcij^. 
33., 5}ieffcbie 33reitebe«'C^intertl)eile? Don ?inie B an *i^inie Gl unb 

ftelle ben Setrog berfetben auf ben "ipuntt I auf ?inie Gl, ha^ §uften* 

maa^ (SJ^aaB ^0. 1) mit | 3^11 3"9«^^ riidrcdrts anlegenb unb 

baburd) ben ^untt FF bilbenb. 
34., 95ollenbe ba§ ©eitentl)eil, mie an* ber 3fiti)nung ju erfeben, inbem 

eine Sinie Don $un!t BB auf Sinie VF, ben ^ninft 2 auf Sinie BF 

burd)fd)ncibenb*unb allmdjlig nad) bem ^uutte FF Derlaufenb; Der= 

Idngere biefetbe ungefdftr 3 3oll nad) unterl}alb ber Sinic Gl in 

fcn!re(^ter 9iid)tung. 
35., 5}?effe Dom ^unfte W jum ^unfte Y unb tragc bic fo erl^altene 

iiftanj Don BB au§, iiber auf bie obenbenannie Derldngerte ?inie (jur 

Seftftellung ber Seiteutljeilfpit^e unten) unb fo ben "^^untt GG bilbenb. 
36., Uebertrage bie ^iftan^ Don FF nacj GG auf bie ^^iuie D unb trage 

biefelbe Dom *^un!t I, abmarts an, ben ^:|>unft HH bilbenb. 
37., 3^c^f ^in^ ^inie Don GG ben "ipuntt HH burd)fd)neibenb bie ?inie 

GH bilbenb. 
38., 9hm nicffe bie ^^iftanj Don 'iPunft K nac^ I unb trage fold^e Dom 

^>un!te I nacj bem ^^untte II auf Ji^inie Gl iiber ; bernad^ meffc bie 

4)iftan5 Don \^inie D, nai^ bem ^^Nuntte I uuf i^inie Gl unb iibevtrage 

biefelbe Don ^inie D auy auf \^inie BF, nad^ riidirdrte mit h S^U 3u- 

gabe ben ^-^unlt KK bilbenb. ^ann 3iel}e bie Ji^inien Don KK nat^ I 

nnb Don KK nad) II. 
39., S}on ber ^;^inie GH ftelle auf ber ^inie Don KK na(^ II | SoO ber* 

auf, ben "ipuntt LL bilbenb unb auf ber !t?inic Don KK nac^ I ftelle J 

3on l)erauf, ben $un!t MM bilbenb. 
40., 3if6^ fi"^ ^iiii^ t)on GG nad) LL, (formire ba? (^eitentl)eil unb 

^orbert^eilber^fidjnung gemdfe) unb fdjncibe ben su^on ['^lurfd)nitt] 

*iii'ann bet ber (Vormirung be? i>intevtl)cilec X^unlt 2 iiidit berul?rt irirb, fo 
^at c? bei ber 'i>oUcnbung bee ^citeiitljeile^ auiJj nici)t 3u gejdieljen. 



9 

QU§ toie Quf ber S^i^nung ju erfe^cn. [gigur 1 ^ia. ^iftanj t)on I 

x\a6^ n.] 
41., 5Iu§meffen ber $?eibtt3cite [SiJ^aa^ X]. Ttacftbem ba§ ^iiftenmaaB 

PJka^ I] mit I Son SitS^J^^ criaubt, bringe bie babur^ er^^altenc 

©umme [n3eld)e e§ auc^ imtner fein mag] auf ben ^un!t K auf Sinie 

Gl, fteflc nac^ bev grout be§ 9lo(fe§ J S'oa ber Seibroeite mit 2^ 3u= 

gabe fiir 9^d^te ben ^im!t NN bilbenb. 
42., 3n berfelben SBeife [telle auf ber ^inie BF, Don ?inie B aii§, bie 

i 39riiftmeite mit 2| 3olI 3ugabc dor, ben ^unft 00 bilbenb. 
43., !S'\^f}C Don ^untt Q an Sinie P3 eine min!elred)te Sinie unb [telle 

auf berfelben Don $un!t Q aul i|6 ber J Sruftttjeite t)or, [53ered)nung 

BE. No. 2 benii^enb] ben $un!t PP bilbenb. 
44., ,3ief)e Sinien Don PP wad) 00 [?inie PO] unb Don 00 m^ NN 

[$!inie NO.] ^er 2)ur(^fcf|nittgpun!t ber ^inie NO & GH bilbet ben 

^un!t 4. 
45., SBon $un!t K auf ?inic Gl [telle sur ^inie PO bie 5)a(§tod)^o5e 

[3J?aaB ^I] ben -^unft QQ bilbenb. 
46., Qkfjt Don ?inie P3 au§ eine minfelredfite $?ine berart, hai [ie bie 

^inie PO bei QQ fc^neibet nnb formire ha^ Qai^lod) unb front ber 

3ei(f)nung 9^ig I gemd^; biefe front i[t, fur ben Prince Albert ^odt 

mit extra lapell. 
47., 5Son ber ^inie Gl bet bem ^unfte K jie^e bie fen!rec§te SBinfeflinie 

KK unb [teQe auf berfelben Don $un!t K au§, i^a^ SBru[tmaaB,. Der« 

mittelft 3Bere(f)nung BR. No. 3 fterunter, ben ^un!t RR bilbenb. 
48., «on ^un!t RR auf Sinie KR ,:^ie^e bie Sinie RS. 
49 , ©telle auf Sinie RS Don $un!t RR au§ ba§ ©uftenmaafe (SD^aag 

^0, 1) mit 1| 3o(I 3usabe, ben 'iPunft SS bilbenb. 

50., SSon ^unft GG auf ?inie GH fteUe 1 3oa ^erauf, ben ?un!t TT 

bilbenb. 
51., 3ie5e $?inte Don $un!t TT ben $un!t SS bur^fcfjneibenb bie Sinie 

ST bilbenb. 
52., 3ie6e eine l^inie Don TT nac& MM. 

53., 3iel)e eine :2inie Don $unft MM nac^ ^un!t 4. (fiebc Seic^nung.) 
54., 3Son ^unft 4 auf Sinie GH [telle nad) $un!t 5 2i ^oO Dor. 

®iefe 3it9Q^€ ift fiir lapell unb lluifd)lag fiir ben ©d}oo6 in ber front. 
55., SSon $un!t 5 auf ^inie GH, jie^e bie minlelred)te Sinie [be3eid)net 

front of Prince Albert Skirt] . 
56., 2Jie[[e bie Sntfernung Don ^unft Y x\a6) Zl unb trage [old)e auf 

$?inie ST Don ^untt TT au^, iiber ben g^unft UU bilbenb. 
57., S\^\)i eine ^ii^f^Hini^ t)on ^^un!t D auf l^inie A unb bem ^un!fe 

UU Quf ?inie ST bi§ ^ur ^inie KR, ben ^untt VV bilbenb. 3?on bem 

^unfte VV auf ^inie KR, [tcfle nad) bem ^untte 6, J 3oll ^erunter. 
58., 3iefte Don fiinie KR bei bem ^unftc 6 eine mintelrec^te ?inie, be* 

geii^net 6^ unb Dollenbe ben unteren %fit\l be« ©i^oofeeS ber 3cic^nung 

gemdB. ^ie§ gibt ben Sd^oo^ fiir ben Prince Albert 9to(f . 
59., ^^f^^fiftiQ^/ ^D^n abgeftoi^ene [[ogenannte cutaway] ©d)oo6e. 

$8on '•^unft GG nac^ <ipunft 7 ftefle 5 f)erauf. 
60., 5>on $untt RR auf ^inie RS fieOe nad) bem ^unfte 8 ba§ .&iif. 

tenmaafe [^o. 1] mit 1 ^dK 3»gabe. 
61., 3ie^e ^inien Don $unft 7, ^unft 8 auf ?inie RS burdjfc^neibenb, 



10 

bie ^inie 8A bilbenb; t)on^im!t 7 ben ^unft MM beriiJirenb; ton 
^un!t MM nac^ ^un!t 4. 

62.; 9J?effe bie ^iftanj tjon T no^ 9a [!?Qnje be§ ©intcnl^eiIi(iooBe§] 
erkube bie ^iftanj Don bem ^unft 7 auf ![?inie 8a, ben $un!t 9 bilbenb. 

63., gkf)t eine 3ii^^ffl^^i^ ^on ^un!t 9 auf JOinie 8a, bie ^inic KR 
bur(^f(J)neibenb, [ben $unlt D auf Cinie 5( alg 2J^itteIi3un!t] unb fo 
ben ^un!t Y3 bilbenb. 3^iefe ^ii^^f^inie nac^ ber front ^in Derlan- 
gerenb, ^ie SBorfkllunc^ fiir 2 rei^ige Dorn abgeftoc^ene Sc^ofee Don 
4 nQ(^^ 5, Quf ![?inie GH ^ancit ganjlicf) Don ber 5lrt be^ iRodeS ab, ba 
bieg bie SSeite be^ lapell ergibt. 

64., S?on 5pun!t 00 auf ?inie BF eriaube 3 3oU, ben $unft VTW 
bilbenb. 9^act)bem bie §o^e ober 5orm ber lapell oben feftgefteflt, meU 
c^e (icinjtic^ Don bem @efd)mQcf bes ^unben ober ber SQ^obe 
Qb^angt, Me. 55on 5pun!t XX na^ ^unft 10 ebenf aU? 3 3oU. ^er 
su9on [51u§fd)nitl] ifl ber 3ci|i)nung gemoB ^erQUsjufdineiben, b. ^. 
bei einem 3ftoc! ber auf Sig. Xia. 1 bargeftellten ^rt. 

65., 3ie^e ^inien Dom ^Um!te lOnacft bem l^untte WW, Don WW 
nac^ ber 55orfteflung ber lapell unten, unb formire lapell unb ^d)ooB 
ber 3<^icf)nung gemaB, fotuie ber 5}^obe. 

66., (Sinrei^iger, Dornabgeflodiener [cutaway] (Ed^ooB. Ter Unter. 
fc^ieb 5n)ifd)en biefem unb bem jmeirei^igen ifl, baB ber ^Hmtt GG 
bie §b^e be» (ScbooBe^ bilbet. 

67., ^on $un!t RR auf ^inie RS, criaube nod^ l^inten su ?unft 11, 
ba§ ^uftcumaaB mit J 3^11 3"9«^f. 

^^./ 3^^^^ ^inie Don ^untt GG, ben ^^unft 11 berut)renb iinb DcIIenbe 
ben Sd)ooB/ fomie oflc ferfiooBe in ber galte, roie burc^ punttirle i'inien 
auf ber 3t'it^"nnci ju fel^cn ifl. XaS i^erfafircn bei ber unteren 5}on» 
enbung ber ^d^'oi^e iftbaffelbe, n)ie be'i ben Dorbergebenben. 5^ie 33or. 
fteflung fiir bie 5lVite ber lapell ift lebiglid) 53iobe|ac^e. 

Tlaxtm ^^unft Kl an ber fi-ont xvo bie lapell beriinifdnt. "^^unft 
K2 am §aUlod)e, bie ^Breite beg llmfaU« ber lapell bejeidmenb unb 
3ie]^e bie K3. ^ki)t bie ^inie 3^ 1 30II riicfmdrtc Don I'inie K3, bie. 
fe^ ergibt ben ^tel)tragcn, unb mefje Die (>ntfernung Don 'I'unft K2 
bU Q ber gorm be? .v^Ql?IodH\^ folgenb. ©riaube biefe 51i}eite meniger 
J 3ofl auf ^inie 31 Dom "i^untt K2 qu^, ber Jotm be* 4>til5lod)el an 
l^inie 3i folgenb. (Srlaube Don 1| bii^ 2 3cll fiir ben Umfallfragen, 
ben ^^unlt K4 bilbenb. formire bie front Do? ^ragens ber^^^obe ober 
ber -irt be^ ^Jiorfe« gemdB. 3iel}c 3^i*ii^ii"9- 

idJLl^MIjIji. diagram 2. 

1., Sie^e 5inie A unb leae auf berfelben Don ^^un!t B an*, bie ^if- 
tanj Don ^^un!t QQ nad) 00 an, ben ^43untt C bilbenb. (SBenn ein 
su9on berausgenonimen loirb, fo ift ber Unterfc^icb stnifdien ben ^unU 
ten B unb C abjunebmen.) 

2., i^ege auf Sinie G Don '^unh C au§, bie Tiftans ber ^Nuntte 00 
nad) 4 an, ben $un!t D bilbenb. 

^Inmerfung ju "^l^mift 6S. ^ei einreibigcni 'Jvocf mil luxicm UmfaU ifi, U 
1^ 3oll l^orftellung fiiv t»ie lapell auf ber Vinie BF gcniigent), aia^rent) bei Ion- 
gem UmfaU bac iNcrfa^ven ber jnieirei^iflen geUenb ift. 



11 

Slec^et bey ^Jlaa^ue^meny fietje ^^xadMod, 

3^egel fiir geic^nen fieje ?^'xad=^od Don U^ec^el 1 bt§ 19. 

20., 3iel}e ?tnie Don ^unft V auf i^nie B nad] bem ^^uu!t F, bie Sinie 
VF btlbenb; lec^e bie Mc be» scales auf "^miti U auf ber ^inie MT, 
bieduBere ^ante ber scales ben ^un!t V berlil)renb (B^ctjeber lurjen 
^ante entlan^ eiue Sinie) nnb bilbe ben ^un!t W au[ £^tnie VF. 3{e^e 
eine 2inie t)on "ifunft W nac^ I, auf l^inie Gl, bie Sinie WI bilbenb. 

21., 23on ^un!t L meffe auf Sinie B bie Uolle Sdnge beg ^locfeg; fielje 
^untt X. 

22., 3ie^e eine min!e(red)te Sinie t)on ^nnii X auf Sinie B, bie Sinie 
XY bilbenb. 

23., 55on Tmn!t X auf Sinie B, fteHe auf Cinie XY J ber i SBruftmeite 
(3JJaaB 9); bie $erecf)nung BR. No. 2 beuii^enb Uor, ben ^unft Y 
bilbenb. ^on bem ^$un!t Y auf Sinie XY ^le^e bie rainfelrec^te Sinie 
YS. 

24 , %f)e\U bie ^iftanj auf Sinie WI ^mifi^en bem ^unfteW unbber 
J^inie BF in 2 qleic^e 3:^ei(e, ben ^^^unft V2 btlbenb, unb t)oflenbe ba§ 
|)intert^eil, mie auf ber ^^ic^nuni^ ^u erfeften, b. ft. uon L auf Sinie 
B, gu N; oonN atlmdftlici bie ^Oinie MT fd^neibenb, Don U nad) Y2, 
"^Punft W fdjneibenb; t3on V2 big gur^^inie YS allmdljHg ^ulaufenb. 
i)ieg ift bag §intertfteil beg geraben ^adSod^^; fiefte ^grin. 4. 

^ n m e r ! u n g. 2Benn ber ©adrocf ein enganliegenber fein foil, 
ftetle don Sinie B auf Sinie Gl ^ ^ofl ein, ben $untt U2 bilbenb unb 
Don l^nie XS auf Sinie Gl, ebenfallg i Soil ben ^:|3un!t S2 bilbenb ; 
Don bem ^unfte V ^iefte eine Sinie ^um ^unft U2, Don bem ^^un!te 
U2 5u bem ^un!te X unb geftalte biefelbe ber i5fi4)nung gemoB, alfo 
Dom ^unfte V2 ju bem ^^uu!te Y, fo ha^ fie ben "^^imit S2 bcrul)rt 
mie auf ber 3^id)nung ^'ia. 3 ju erfeften. 

25 unb 20 fielie 3tegel 28 unb 29 Don gradrod. 

2'7., 5Son ^unft R auf Sinie P3 flelle J ^oU nad) Q fterauf, inbem 
man ebenfomeit nad) ber front Dotgcftt, ben $unft DD bilbenb unb 
Dollenbe ben ©($ulter].mnft, ber 3sid)nuna gemdB. 

28 unb 29 fiefte ^tegcln 31 unb 32 uon gradrod. 

30., 50^effe bie 33reite beg |)intert^eile§ auf Sinie Gl unb lege biefe 
55reite auf ben '•^nnti I auf Sinie Gl auf, bie ^iiftenmeite [^1o, 
1] mit 1 3o^^ B^^flo^^ "0<i} l)inten geftenb, ben ^un!t A2 bilbenb; t)ie» 
iff Der gerabe (^adrod, bei meld)em bersu9on (51u5f(^nitt) in ber (Seitc 
nid)t l)erau§genommen mirb; fiefte ^ia. 4. ^-ixx enganliecjenbe <Bad= 
rode, beobad)te 9iegel 33 be§ gradrode§, bei inelcftem bie su9ons fter= 
auggenommen merben. 

31., 33ollenbe bag Seitentf)eil mie auf ber ^^i^nung ju erfeben. 

32,, giefte bie min!e(red)te ^inie KR Dom ^|sunlte aiif Sinie K Gl nad^ 
unten unb erlaube auf ber i'inic KR Don bem befagten "^unfte K ai\9 
(33ered)nung BR No. 3 benii|eub) bie l^Bruftmeitc, beii '-j^untt RR 
bilbenD. 5^on '^imii RR auf Sinie KR jiclie bie minfelred)te Sinie 
RS; Derldngcre biefelbe fo loeit, baB jie bie ^inie B fd)neibet unb hni 
02 bilbet. "Vluf £'iuie RS Dom ^-]]unfte B2 au^3,f\rile i|g ber I 53ruft= 
mcite Dor, ben '-jjuult C2 bilbenb. l^^^ffe bie (5ntfernuug Don ber 8c;te 



12 

be§ §mtert^ci(e», Quf Sinie ES gu ^unft C2 unb leqe bie er^aftene 
SSeite auf ^un!t RR an. (Srlaube ba§ §uftenmaaB mit 1 3oII 3"= 
gabe auf 2inie RS, fiir ben geraben Sacfrocf (unb fiir ben enganUeg* 
enben | 3oU) ben ^imft 1)2 bilbenb. 3ie^e Don ^unft A2 na'c^ 
^Punft D2 eine 2ime (bie Sinie A4 bilbenb) fiir ben geraben ^acfrocf 
(fie^e ^ia. 4) unb fiir ben enganfd)(ieBcnben Sacfrocf, Don ^unftFF 
nad) bem ^punft D2, bie Sinie FD bilbenb). 

33., DJ^effe bie ^iftan^ Don Sinie D nad) bem ^un!te I auf $?inte Gl; 
troge fold)e auf 2inie BF Don Sinie D a\ix> an, mit J 3otl 3"9abe unb 
bilbe ben ^$un!t KK. 3^^^^ 2inien Don '^^un!t KK nad) K unb Don 
KK nac^ I, unb neftme ben su9on (^ug)d)nitt) ^erau5, mie auf ber 
3eid)nung (^ia. 3) 311 erfe^en. 

34, 35, 36, 37 unb 38, fie^e 9iegeln 41 bi^ 45 Don gradrod. 

39., 2Son ber Sinie P3 ^ie^e eine ?inie roinfelrec^t 3U bem ^un!t QQ 
auf i'inie PO unb geftalte ben §al§lod^ unb ben untercn 3:^eil ber 
front ber 3^id)nung (2)iagram) gemdB. . 

giir 2 rei^iger Sadrode (mit geraber front) beac^te bei ber Swollen* 
bun.^ unten, bie iRegel be8 Prince Albert ^ode?. ^ei ben 1 unb 2 
rei^igen, Dorn abgeftoc^en biepJiegel ber ein= un^ .^roeivei^igen cutaway 
5radri)dfe. 53ei oerbedter .Qnbpfpatte Don ead=Ueberrode roirb 3 
big 3i i^Dfl/ ie nac^ ber :Dide be» ^toffe^, fiir lapellerlaubt; bei bop= 
;)elrei^igen Don 3^ bis 4 30U, ebenfalls je nac^ ber '^^ide be» Sloffel. 

^ia* 4 nnb 5 ftcUt bie Dtode fiir corpulentc Seute bar. ^ie 
§erau»ftellung (bei ber 3fid)nung ber D^od|d)bBe) auf Sinie RS Don 
$un!t RR au», (fiir Prince Albert coat) betrdgt bar §iiftenmaaB 
unb 1 3ofl 3"9^^^ (^on GG nacb TT 1 3d11 ^erauf) fiir 3meireil)ige 
Dorn abgeftodjene O^ode (DEC) ha^ ^iiftenmoaB mit J 3^11 S^ifi*^^^ 
unb Don *!)3un!t GG big i^uuft 7, i 3dCI ; fiir einreil)ige corn abgc- 
fto^ene ^od^ nur hai ^iiftenmaaB- &iir 8adrbde ifl \>a^ ^liftenmaa^ 
genligenb o!^ne 3i^9^^^^- 

(Solltc ein sucon (^^lu^fi^nitt) beim 53ovbertbeile ^erau^genommen 
merben, bann ift fold)er, nad)bem er gemad)t, fo iiber einanber ju legen 
al» ob er gendbt mdre. 2^er Sd^ooB aber um fo Diel ab^unebmen, aU 
"ba^ 3>orbertI)cil iiber felbigen ^inmegragt. (fiefte punttirte i^inien auf 
3eid^nun9\ 

^iebe diagram 0. 
^Xiefe IRegeln fiir ben 5vadrod=ed)ooB linb biefelben, aU bei ben ein- 

reibigen Dorn abgeftodienen ^S.B.C.) mitbenfolaenbcn^ilbdnberunaen: 
1., etelle Quf Sniie GH Don ^Mmft GG aug, i 53ruilmeite mit 1 3oU 

3ugabe Dor ben '^'untt A bilbenb. 
2., S'^^\( bie iDintelvei^te 5inie AB Don X^xmU A auf ?ime GH unb 

fteUe auf berfelben I)erunter md) "ii^unft B, 2\ — 2h S^^- 
3„ 9tad)bem audi bie 'iHuftelliung Don ^ininft 4 big 5, mie beim Prince 

Albert Oiod gemai^t, 3icbe t)on 1'untt 5 au? auf ^inie GH, bie 

l^inie 5i : ftefle auf berfelben Don 2^ big 2Jr ^^oll beruntcr. ben jnintt 

:Jlnmcrfung 311 "iUvt. 2. (Viir i^eifoncn, treld)f iibev -io i^ruftnifite babcn, 
erUiube 2i bt« 2i ,3oU; bfi %>erjonen mit iiber 40 30U ^ruft, iiiJeite *i j bi« 3 ^oH; 
bieje ^u^abc t)ang| ebenfaUS oon i>er 2}ioJ)e ab. 



13 

1 Bllbenb. (^le okn, bei ^un!t 2, gec^cBenen 58emer!ung ift auc^ ^kv 
Su beoBa(f)ten). 

4., 3ie§f fine Sinie ijon $un!t B ju ^unft 1. 

5., 33on $un!t GG biS C fteKe i bt§ 1 3oa f)erunter. ^iefe 3uaabe 
^cinc^t Don ber 33eleibt^eitbe§^^unben ab. 

6., D^ad^bem bte Sdnge bcy ec^ooBe» feftgefledt loeldje ben '15un!t D 
bilbet, lege ben tape auf ^^uu!t GG, mit ber red^ten ^anh, bie ^reibe 
unb tape auf ^^unft D unb mad)e eincn Si^'^^^^jug nacf) ber front. 

7., 8telle Don D bi5 E | 3oll Dor (fiefje 3eicl)nung) Don E bi^ F ^ 
t)er J ^ruftraeite, ben ^un!t E bilbenb; jie^e eine Cinie Don ^unft B 
bi^ F unb formire ^m SdjooB ber 3ei<i)riung gemdB. 

5tdcFe fiit Detftu^^ielte Sattatt^ 

gigur 7 ftellt einen 9lo(! fiir gteid^mdBig Derfruppelte SSauart Dor, 
gu befjen ^erftetlung bie ndd^ftfolgenDe |)iUf»maaBe unbcbingt not^» 
njenbig fint), melc^e jebergeit uber ben Uod genommen merben. ©ie^e 
3=ig. 2. ^iefe 3eicf)nung fann a(§ 53a)'i» '^nx aQe anberen Der!rup|)eU 
ten 53auarten btenen. 33e3eic^ne $unft 3, 8 2a unb 2^, roie auf 3^9. 

2 gu erfe^en. 

1., ©djulterbreite Don ?5un!t 3 (vertigo) gu '?3unft 8. 

2., S5on $un!t 3 (vertigo) gu $un!t 2A . 

3., 35on^unft2Agu^untt2B. 

K 3Soi'$unft8bi5 2A. 

5., (Sc^ulterblattmaaB t)on ^unfl 3 (vertigo) iiber bie ©(^ulter na^ 

corn, unter bem ^rme ^inburi^ gu $un!t 2^. Seirn ^ei(^nen (fiefte 
■ Je'id)nung) finb bie 53kaBe angulegen, nad] ber Dtei^enfolge tt)ie fie 

auf bem koxpzx genommen 2Benn bie DJiaafee ridjtig genommen unb 

auf bie Jeid)nung ge^i^rige ^lufmerffam!eit Dermenbet mirb, fo mirb 

ftet» ein gut paffenber Dtocf erlangt merben; g. 33., 
1., ^ie <Sd)uIterbreite (Don 3 biy 8) ift Don ^untt L nad) U angule* 

gen mit J Jofl Jugabe fiir ^d(}te. 
2., ^er ^-jSunft 2 auf bem §intert^eile (fie^c Jeic^nung) tvixh erlangt, 
ginbe ben Uuterfd)ieb graifd)en qem l^kage Don 

^ bt§ 2A - - - gum 33eifpiele - - - SJ 

Don 3 big 8 . 7i 



Derbleibt | 

2)ie §dlfte JieDon, namlid) ^ mirb Dom '^Ulaa^^ ^o. 2 abgegogen, g.S5. 

DJkoB '^lo. 2 - (auf 5eid)nung - b 

i biffereng - - - - - 2 

Derbleibt 4^' ^ofl, me(d)e Dom 'ipunft L auy auf Sinie B feftgeftellt 

merben unb ben ^^3unft 2 bilbet. Jiefte eine i^nie Don '>|3unft U, ben 

$unft 2 burd)fd)neibenb unb ftelle auf berfelben Don $unft U au«, Da§ 



Stnmerfung m ^rt. 7. i8ei einem bicfen a)ianne gelje eytra i 3^^ ^^^^^^ 
^untt F. ®ie{)e punftirte iiinicn. 
^Inmerfunq ju sueons. ilBeim bie suoons, roie nuf ber ^fi^t.^i'^fl ^" f^^' 
fet)en, nic{)t t)craU'?(^enonimcn iDerbcn, jc^c 3U,"bQ|B ber Sdjooji an biefem 2;l)eilc 
gut eiiiQebiujelt loivD. 



14 

TlaaV, 5^0. 4 fej^, ben *ipmi!t 2^ Bitbeub. Sege auf ber Sinie B Don 
^^unft 2A ^a5 ^DZaaB D^o. 3 an unb bilbe ^unft 2B ; ^ie^e eine Sinie 
t)on ^un!t K nn(^ ^>unft 2^ ben $unft 2-^ i'd)neibenb unb gebe berieU 
ben bie auf ber 3ei(i)nunci ^u erfef)enbe Sorm; baki ift ^u beD6act)ten 
baB t)on $un!t M md) N nur J anftatt J 3^^ aunudrt§ geftelit n)trD 
Urn ba» ©eitentfieil gu formiren, (ec^e ba§ 9JkaB [-S:^cf)ulterb(attmaaB] 
nuf ben Rorper cjenommen, t)on Q nad) 2-^ an. 

51 n m e r ! u n g. Urn bie 53eufrup|)e[una nic^t ^u fe^r [iditbar ^u laf = 
fen, ift e» notftmenbig, ben Dtocf beim 3i^ullerblatt [ber punfhrten 
Sinie auf ber ^eic^nung folgenb] ju raattiren. 23enn bie ^erfriip* 
pelung mef)r auf Der Seite ift, ift e§ not^raenbig, \)a^ ^Jlaa'^ auf bciben 
©eiten ju nel}men unb bie ^eid}nung bemgemdB jU bilDen. SpUte 
gugleicft and) ein ©orfer auf b"er 33ruft fein, fo ma^t t)ie^ fcinen befon= 
beren Unterfc^ieb bei ber 3^i<^nung ber 33orberl^ei(e. 

^ta. 8 iei(\t un^ ben 9lp(f fur Me tJoti^eBogene 
(^ieUun^ mit futjer front unb langcr back balance. 

SDic Umgeftaltung ift, burd) punftirte Sinien, ttjie auf ber 3ei$nung 
;;u erfel)en, ndmlid]: bie (Einftellung Don ?inie B auf Sinie Gl ift bie J 
^iftan,^ Don K Don I. '}(m .J)inte'rtf)ei(e gel)e oben i 3^^ berein; bei 
^^untt R b(eibe auf^ber 3ii^ff^3iig^inte fteben. )Ba^ ha^ §intertbei( 
Derliert, tnirb bem e)eitentbei( roieberum jugegeben. ^kk^i 'r^erfabren 
tritt ein, fobalt) bie back balance fo lang a(^ bie front balance ift. 

5lermcL diagram 9. 

'gScfdircifiung bes 'gSaaf^uc^mens, ^eid)nen$ unb !^iifdineiben$ 
Don (J)(ier- unb 5{ntcrdrmcf. 

1., 9)^effe bie ^iftain,^ Don bem ^ninfte De§ cf^intertbcile?, be;eid)net 
sleeve, nad) U; t)om "^uuftc EE, ber ^A-orm be^ ^^(rmlod)e^ folgenb, ^um 
•^unfte T, bejeidjnet sleeve ; bierburd) geroinnt man bie ilBeite be« 
Cbcrdrmel^. !i>om '^^uuftc T, ber ?vorm be^ "i)(rmIod)ey folgenb. ^u 
^yNUut't BB, t)on "iniuft W hc^ §intertbeilec ^uriid febrenb, nad) bem 
^^(u^gangypunft, be^cidjiiet sleeve; bievburd) gcnnnnt man bie )Bc\\t 
be§ Unterdrmel?; Dom '•^^unfte Q nad) T an !i?inie D, bie ^^dnge erbaU 
tenb, meld)e non ber ooflen is^dnge bc-Z' '^lermeli? fubtrabirt mert^en muij. 

2., ^kl-)c Sinicn A <S: B, ber Turdifd)nitt^oinnift ben i^unft C bilbenb; 
lege bay ^^intertbeil luie auf ber 3eid)nung [diagram] ^u erfeben, DaB 
ber $unft L bev ^intertbeilei^ auf inin!t C ^u fteben fommt; trage bie 
l^iftau^ Don '^^untt L nad) ^^mc BF auf i^inie B ubcr, Den '^.'untt D 
bilbenb. 

3., ^ege 'ba?' .v^intcrtbeil fo auf ^inie A., mie c§ auf ber 3t'^*J^"iii^i^ 5" 
erfeben, baf^ be^ 'l^untt U be^ 4>intevtl)eilec bie !i^inie B beriibrt, ben 
^nmft E bilbenb, unb meffe bie '^iftan,^ auf i^inie D DOm '•]?un!te T 
nad) F, auf ^^inie BF nnb trage foldie auf ii^inie B Dom inmft D 
I)erauf iibcr, ben '].nin!t F bilbenb. 

4., 'S\c\)c bie minfelred)te l^inien El, Fl, Dl Don ben "•^.'mitten E, F 
unb I) auf ^inie B. 



W 15 

5., ^?efie bie SSeite bcs C6erdrmels t)om ^^unlleF auf Sinie B 3111- 

Sinie El ^in a6, ben '^itnh Gr bilbenb. 
6., ^Kf)?: bie minfe(red)te Sinie G-l, bei ^itnft G- aiif 2um El. 
7., S^eile bie ^^iftan^ ^luifdjen ben '^-^imften D & F auf Sinie B in 2 
gleidje 2;§eile, tnoburd] mil* ben ^nmft H c^elninnen; ,ve()e eine icinfet* 
recite Sinie l3on ■]3un!t H an £'inie B, [telle auf berfelbeu i|6 ber J 
Sruft njeniger h juriicf, ben $unft I ln(benb. 
8., Sege bie 9Beite bes UnterarmelS (non '^nui!te F anf ?inie B j^n I) 
Doni ^^unft I auftDdvty nn, ben tape [93?aaB] feft auf '^^un!t If)a,(tenb 
^erauf ^nr Sinie El, ben ^unft K biltienb. 

9., Wlciit bie ^iftanj jmifdjen ^^un!t Gr unb Cinie Fl, anf Sinie Gl, 
erlaube biefelbe bon ber Sinie Gl unb Fl ^nr Sinie Dl, ben ^^nn!t L 
biibenb. 

10.. DJki^e einen 3i^"^^^3ii9 ^on ^un!t L unb G gegen ^unft F. [5Beo^ 
badjte D^ec^ct, tnie bei benSocfenunb^ofen gegeben] <SieI]e 3?^d)nuna. 

11., Sie^e Sinie Don ^^unft G- auf ii'inie El, ^u '^^untt D auf !^inie B 
unb tfieile fold)e in 2 C[k\d)e -^fteile, '^unft M bilbeub. 

12., 3^^^^ ^^i $unft M bie miufelredjte Sinie Ml, ftede auf berfelSen 
Don $Hin!tM au^ ije ber J 53ruftnieite Ijeraiif unb uoilenbeben Cber= 
unb Uuteraimel ber 3^ic^"iina gemdB. Seobadite bei ber S-orniiruutj 
be» Unterdnnela bie Suntte M unb I gu beriil]ren. 

13., D3?effe auf $^inie B Don ^mn!t F au^o, bie iibrig bfeibenbe Sdn^ie be§ 
^terme(§ ab,Jo ben ^^uuft N biibenb; nacf)betn man bie in '*^(rtitel 1 
angeaebene subtraction gemad]t ^at. 

14., i[)ei(e bie Sntferuung auf Sinie Fl, 3tnifd)en ^^imft F auf Sinie B 
unb Sinie Gl in 2 gleid]e 5ir)ei(e, ben ^niuft O biibenb. 

15., Sege ben scale fo an, ha}^ bie eine (Sde beffeiben an ^un!t N an 
2 inie B rufit unb bie dufiere .Qante an ^unft O auf ?iuie Fl.; ^iebe 
bie Sinien 01 unb Nl unb tbeile bie 'Diftang Don N nad) G in gtDei 
gleidie-Sfjeite, ben 'H^unft P biibenb. 

16., S'\^i)^ bie n)infelred)te ^>^inie PI Don Sinie B nac^ bem ^unfte P 
auf l?inie 01; ber ^urd)fd)nitt^pun!t Don l^inie PI unb Gl bilbet hm 
^sunft Q. 

17., (5teIIe auf Sinie "Ml Don $un!t N au?, J ber J Srufttueit" ^uriid, 
ben ^4-^unft E biibenb. @§ ift uidjt ni)tf)ig, biefe ^Dtogel ^u be obadjteu, 
tt)enn bie 53co^e ober ber 5\unbe e§ auber§ Dcrlauiicn. 

18., i^on ^nmft Q nad) Pi ^ielje eine I'iuie unb Dollenbe ben 5(ermel 
ber 3eidinunc] (diagram) gemdB. ^^enn ber ^lermel j;iuei 9?dbte cr= 
balten foil, fo tnerben in ber front li ^oll gugcgebcn mie auf ber.3eid)= 
nung ^n erfel)en burd) bunftirte ?inien, unb bilbe ben '-j^unft S oben 
unb '^unft T unten, meldie 3i'ft^^^ nad)I)er nom llnterdrmel alK}t^ 
nommen mirb. '3)er ^lerniel mirb ber ^^-'idinung gemdf^ QuSi]e()obIt. 
3^ie 3ugabe fiir Umfcftlag Dorn, Dariirt ,^iuifc^en I bi^ IJoL^ii- S'iir 
einen bidcn iDtann eriaube nebft ber 3.'Beite bet^ Unterdrniely, 1 3'-'^Il, 
itjelc{)er burt^ einen siu;on [^^luefc^nitt] mieber I)erauv^gcnomnien miib; 
fie^e punftirte ^inien auf ber 3cid)uung [diagram]. 

9legclit, tDdd)c hcim ^liifatbetten bet^vde 
^u bead)Un Unb* 

2^ia. 1. ^on A ^u B biigic ein; uon D bi^^ C wuh Don F bieJ E 



16 

gie^e au§; b;e facing, Beftenb QU§ buckrum imb gutter, ton G Bi§H 
gie^e au§; fiir ^o^e ober breite <Sc^uIier fe^e eineit 3tt)ic^s^« Grusset in 
bie facing. 

5lnmer!ung. ^cr su9on (auf ber 3fi<i)nnng') ton B bi§ C, 
tnirb nur fiir ^erfonen mh ftarfen ©iiften nebraudit. 

^ia. 2. iBiigle ein oon C bis D; bie ^iflon^ oon A bi§ B toirb 
einaearbeilet. 
t)ia. 3. S5on A big B, nnb ocn C big Dr biigle ein. 
^ie Dorjergeftenben 9lecieln finb gu beac^ten im ^JJaa^ne'^men, S^id]^ 
nen unb Qi^Wneiben fur ftinber. Siebe diagram A. 
305 e f t e * 3)iQgram io. 
33efd)rei6unp ber DJlaaJnabme, 3ci(i)nung unb 3iM"c^nittc§ 
ber SBefte auf §^igur (^ia.) 10, in oierfac^ 
terfieinertem DJ^aaBftabe, 
^em Siodfrnaafee toerben beigefiigt, Ceffnuncj be§ ^ragenl, DoUc 
Sdnge unb Oofle Sdnge in ber Seite. 
glir 9feael 1 — 7 
" '' 2 — 8 

" " 3 — 9 ( fe^e bie entfpredjenben SRegeIn Don 1—11 be5 
" " 4— lOr 9^o(!e5. 

12., 5l^eile bie (Sutfernung oon ^unft I unb H auf ['inie Gl in jmei 
gleid)e 3:beile, ben $un!t CK bilbenb. 

13., 33on ^untt CK auf ^iuie Gl, nief(e jur Sinie B bie 9tiic!enbiifte, 
ben *pnnft L bilbenb. 

14, 15, 16, fiebe bie entfpred}enben SfJegeIn 14—16 be§ 9^o(!e§. 
17, fie^e 9?o. 17 be§ 9tocfe§ bi§ jum $untte S. 

18., 5Bon "ilHinft M nuf Sinie LM 5iebe eine 2inie ^um ^^unfte S auf 
I^inie D, bie !^iuic MS bilbenb. 

1^./ 3i^6f ^i^ifJi Si^'^f^SiH^ ^^^ X^\\\\\\ O auf 5inie D, fo boB cr 5inie 
B fd)neibet. (fiebe D^eciel'begS^i'f^^jii^f? beim '«Rdc!, ben ']3un!t K al^ 
^JJJittelpunft) ben ^>unh V bilbenb ; .^iefte eine toinfehecf)te i^inie oon 
5Pun!t V auf Siuie B, bie l?inie MS fd)neibeub, ben '^^unftAV bilbenb ; 
bie§ erc^ibt bie 33reite ber (2d)ulter be*5 tj^intertbeiler, uield)e and) je 
nad) ^ef^mad fd)maler ober breiter gemad)t merbcn fann. 

20., S^ti:\i ^i^i^ tr)infclred)te \^inie Don l^inie BF i\\\^^, ti>eld)e bie ^^inie 
MS bei.^>nn!t W fitneibet; fiefie ^inie ^'F. 
21 unb 22, fcbe bie entfpredKnbcii_3?eL-ieIn 28 unb 29 bc§ 9tode«. 

23., 5>on ^^un!t Q auf i^iuie P3 melje $ur l^inie D bie OoOe ^dnge in 
ber 8eite, ben ^^uu!t X bilbenb unb 5icl}e Don l^iuic D aur, aw bem 
^Um!t X, bie n»infelred)te ?inie XJ. 

24., 9)?effe bie (^ntfernung Don '^)untt 1 auf Sinie D, ^^um '^^unftl auf 
Gl unb erUinbe felbige Don ^inie D aiu^, auf !!3inie B^, ben ^^unft 
KK bilbenb; jiefte S^wk Don KK nac^ K, unb Don KK nad) I unb 
Dollenbe ba§ ^^^intertfjeil ber 3t'id)nuncj ijcmdB, b. I)., sicbe eine \?inie 
Don '^.Nuntt L \m^) X, f 3^11 Don X 3U XI jugebcub; oon XI allmdb= 
lid) fd)Uieifenb nad) ^^3un!t W nub !^inie MS; Don ^^.nintt AV uad^ KK, 
tt)ie auf ber 3^'i^)"""9 erfii^tlic^. 



17 

25,, ©telle aiif Sinie Gl t)on 2mie B ciu§, biefelbe Sntfcrnung \)ox, 
olg Don H nacE) CK au§tna(f)t, ben ^un!t Y bilbenb., 

26., ^ie^e eine Sinie bom ^urd)fd)nitt§pim!te ber Sinie B^ unb Br 
na$ bem ^^un!t Y auf ^inie Gl, unb [ovmire bag |)mtert]^eil, tt)ie auf 
ber Sci^nung 311 erfe^en. 

27., ©telle bon ^^unft R aug, auf bcm 3ii^^^^5i'9 fiiv S(i)ulter biefelbe 
3)iftan3 al§ t)on ^unft XI gu W betrdgt, ben ^mh EE bilbenb; jie^e 
einie Cinie t)on EE md) CC unb boflenbe bay ^Irmlod) ber 3^i^j"wn9 
gemdB. 

28., ^lu^meffen ber SeibtDeite; nieffe bie 2Beite be§ ©intertl)eile» Don 
^nnft Y nad) I auf Sinie Gl, lege bie baburi^ erl^altene 3Beite ouf 
$un!t K unb meffe auf Sinie Gl wad) ber front, bie | Seibtueite mit 
2 Son 3u9abe fur ^^ajte, ben ^unft NN bilbenb. 

29., 5Iuf biefelbe SCeife bom tjoflenbcten §intertftei( qu^, auf Sinie BF 
bie I ^Bruftmeite mit 2 3ofl 3«9^^^ f^^ ^^^^^ ^or, ben $un!t 00 
bilbenb. 

30., Sie^e bie Sinie NO, bon 00 nad) NN. 

31., 50^ef]e dom ^>un!te Q auf 2mz P3 jur Sinie NO, bie Ceffnung 
bes ^ragen^ mit 1 3ofl 3«(5a^^ fur ^lufarbeiten ; ben $unft SI biU 
benb. ^iif gleid}e 295eife bie ioUe Sdnge ber SBefle mit 1 Soil ^^iQQ^e. 

32., ©telle auf ben 3irfel?;uci fur ©d)ulter Don $un!t R cii\§, I'SoQ 
guriid, ben ^un!t Rl bilbenb. 

33., SW eine ^inie bon ^^unft Rl md) ^un!( SI ouf 2inie NO unb 
geftatte be^ 25orbertIiei( ber 3fid)nung genidB. 

34., gepe bie S3reite be» §intertfteile§ [donL nac^ Nl] auf ber Don Rl 
nad) SI p.e^ogene ?inie an, (Dom ^^^^^^S^ip ber (5d)ulter5i)^e au^), 
ferner gie^e eine Sinic t)on $un!t R nac^ ^untt SI fiir ©teftfrai^en 
unb fteUe IJ S^U Oor (Don ber Don R nac^ SI ge^ogenen ^inic) fiir 
ben umliegenben ^ragen unb DoUenbe fclbigen, mie auf ber ^eidjnung 
;;u erfe^en. ^ie gorm bes ,5Tragen§ ri(^tet fic^ na(^ ber ^Jlobe o^n 
(^efc^mad be§ ^unben. 3)ie3ugabe fiir 3n)eirei^i9e 9tode rid)tet fid) 
gleid)fa[l6 nad) ber ^Zobe. 

^ie auf ber 3^id)nung erfi(^tlid)e jnjcireil^ige SBefte f)at eine 3^19^^^ 
Don 2^ 3o2 Dben unb 2 goil unten; fie^e punftirte Sinien. 

33 e m e r ! u n g. 2Birb bie 2Cefte bire!t i\c6) bem 9todmaaBe ge= 
fd)nitten, fo bri(^t man an ber 33ruft, fotnol^l alg aui^ an ber Seibmeite 
I 3oa ah. 

fSvuft ' SSefte. diagram 11 unb 12. 

^ie ^iegu erforberIid)en ^aafegabe finb folgenbe: 

1, 39ruftmeite, 2, £'eibiueite, 3, 53orberbiifte bi§ jur §iifte 
4, Dode Sdnge in ber eeite, 5, Ceffnung be^ ^ragen^, 
G, Dofle 2dnge ber 2Befte. 
1., Sie^c ?inie A & B; ber ^urd)fd)nitt§punft bilbet ^>un!t A. 
2., i^on ^un!t A fteUe auf ?inie B ^|i2 ber \ 33vufttueite ()erunter, 
ben ^unft C bilbenb. 

3., '^\t\)t Don ^-l^unft C auf i'inie B ^ic toin!efred)te ?inie CD, unb 
flefle auf berfelben Dom ^-^suntte C au6, i|l2 ber \ 33rufttt)eite fjcrau^ ; 
ben $unft D bilbenb. 



18 

4.r ^uf 2me B "oow ^un!t A aul, [leOe J ber 3Bruflmeite ^erunter, 

ben ^unft E bilbenb. 
5., Siefts ^oit Cinie B Qw^/ (^^'^ ^un!te E) nacf) linfg unb re^tS bie 

magredjte Sinie EE. 
6., 5Iuf ber ?inie EE, t)on $un!t E auf Sinie B/ ftetle i|6 ber J 33ruft= 

tueite t)or, ben ^unft F bUbeub. 
7v ^telle auf ber £'ime EE Dom ^unfte E au§, i ber Sruftmeite, 

menicjer J 3^^ J^or, ben ^unft G bilbenb. 
8., Sec^e bie (5c!e [ober Spi^e) be§ 5'Bin!e(g an "punft C auf l^inie B 

jo an, \)a\i ber (anc^e (Sdjenfel ben $un!t F auf i'inie EE beriifjrt, 

giet)e eine I'inie bem furjen (Scf)cnfel entlang unb ha mo tok bie Sinie 

A bur(i)l(^eiben, ifl bie regelrei^te ^d)feifpi^e; ^ierburd) getoinnen toir 

ben^$unftH. 
9., Sielie eine Sinie ton "^Punft D narf) H. 
10., ©telle auf Sinie EE Dom *5Punfte E auf Sinie B' I ber J Sruft= 

m\k ^urUcf, ben '^unft I bitbenb. 
11., 5(uf ber Vinie EE Dom ^-l^unfte I au?, ftetle i ber ^Bruflmeite mit J 

3uqabe ^miid ben '-^unft K bilbeiib. 
12?, 3^et)e bie tt)infe(recf)te £Hnie KU Dom ^^unfte K au^, auf ?inie EE 
13., ^uf ber ?inic B lion "H^imtt E au?, [telle i|6 ber | '-Bruftiueite ^er= 

auf, ben ^un!t L bilbenb. 
14., 3iel)e eine n)in!clved)te $^inie Don ber Sinie B bei '5pun!t L unb 

ftelle auf berfelben i|32 ber | 53vuftmeite nor, ben 'l>unttM bilbent). 
15., 3icl)e einel'inie uon "il^untt D auf !i'inie CD, uurf) bem i^inite M 

iinb^formire "i^a^^ 5ivmlod), fo ha^ e^ ben ^3unftl auf vinieEE berii^rt. 

(Siel)e ^iotiram. 
16., 3iel)e bie luinlelredite 'I'inie HX uon ^?inie A beini ^^unfte H unb 

[telle auf bcrielben Don 'i'untt H au^^, ^io ber I '-bvuftiueite l)erauf, ben 

^uuft N bilbenb. 
17., i^on^ninft N au^?, lege ha^ 33orberbiiften=^kaB 3ur Sinie B ^in 

an, ben ''^.^untt O bilbenb. 
18., '5iel)e lunn 'l^untte O (auf 'I'iuie B) au-?,bie iuinfelred)te 5inic OO 

uad) "reditu nub Iiut>?. 
19., (Stclle auf ber ii^iuie 00 noni "Innitt O au^^, ^ ber ^^'eibtneite mit 

i Boll 3"^Vibe nor, bfu '^'untt P bilbeub. 
20., '^luf ber "^inie 00 noni '^'untte O au-^, ftetle l!i2 ber 3 !i?eibmeite 

;;uriic!, ben 'X^xmti Q bilbenb. 
21., (Stelle auf ber \*inie 00 non ber ^Jinie KU an?, ^^2i ber h \!db= 

njeite nor, ben '^'untt R bilbenb. 
22., 5(uf ^^inie 00 oom '-^Miutte R aue, ftelle^ ber ^eibmeite mit ^ 3oll 

Qutiabe nor, ben ^i^unft S bilbenb, unb tbeile bie If-ntfcrnuuii non Q 

wad) S in 2 aleid)e ^Ibeile, ber X^wuft 1 bilbenb. 
23., 3iel)c iL^inicu non 'I'untte I auf Vinie EE luid) Q unb S, auf ^ini? 

00. 
24., 3iel)e eiuen 3ir!el5ua nom ^I'unfte H, beu "^uutt 1 al? a^Jittefpunft 

beniit3enb, mu% ber ^.^inie K^, l)ievburdi iicminneu nnr beu "•].'untt T. 
25., 3icl]e nom ^^uufte T auf ^.?inie K^' bie miutelredite l^iuie TT. 
26., ^^luf ber IMuie KU nom '^'uufte T auv, [telle i|g ber h '-J3ruftiueitc 

tueniaer i 3'-"'ll berauf, ben "il^untt U bilbenb. 
27., 3iel)e nom '^'unhe U (auf ii?inie "K^) auv, bie luaiirei^te ^Ginie UU 



19 

imb ftclle auf ber[e(5en Don $un!t U aii§, ije ber J ^Brufttneite nor, 

ben ^^iin!t V 6i(benb. 
28., ^^on ^unft Y auf ?inie UU \k\ic i SoH ^erauf, beii ^^uulr W 

bilbenb. 
29., m^m bie Sreite bcr 5?orbertI}ei(=^Iififet Hon H vM) D unb ffeffe 

biefdbe 5)i[ttn]3 ton ^^^unft Y^^ 3iir Sinie TT; f)icrbuvd) geimniien tuiv 

ben ^:iHinft X. 
30., gief/C etne ^in'te don V nad) X imb geftaltc ba^ £)interi[}ci{ luib 

?lrmio(J), hjie auf ber St'irfinunc} p eriel)en. 
31., 3ie^e eine ?inie tjon ^untt G auf Sinie EE, wad) Tsunft P auf 

;[^inie 00, bie ,?inic PG btibenb, unb meffe auf bevfelbcu Dom '^^uu!te 

N au§, bie Ceffaung be^ .^rac^cn? mit 1 3ijf^ SiUlfibe banu bie i^ofle 

Sctncie ber SBefte, ebenfall^ mit 1 !^oii 3"^f^be (fiir'S vuifarbeiteu). 
32., ^ege auf ber Siuie B tjou %n\n(i N au?, bie Dolle ©eitenlcinge ber 

Befte an, mit 1 ^c-ri ^uaade, ben $unft Y bilbeub. 
33., 3ie^c bom "ipunfle Y auf Sinie B bie tuintelredjte Siuie Yl, bi§ 

3ur ^inie YJJ. 
34., 3ie^e eine Sinic Don ^un!t K iiuf Sinie KU, nad) R auf ^iuie 

00 unb t)o[Ienbe bie 3Befte ber S^ii^nung (diagram) gemiiB. 

^nmetfung fiir bie ^elle oI;ne ^ta^en. 

^ac^bem bie i^eid)nung alfo boUenbet, fi^ueibe M^ ,J)intertt)ei( au§, 
unt) brinae ben ^^unft W 6i§ ben ^linft H, ben ^uu!t X bei '^puutt 
r> unb ge^e oben bei -Punft XT ber ^inteutf)ei(=|)bt)e, | 'Soil t}erau§ uuD 
uollenbe bub llebrige bcr 3fid)nung gemdB- 

51 n m e r { u n g. 58ei einer ''^erfon, tueidje mef)r aly 40 3otI 33ruft= 

maa§ f)at, nef)mcn mir "i^a^ einfadje ©djuttermaaft [singie shoulder 

measure] ettua§ feft an ben Seib legen, (fiel)e ^Jhiaf^naftme beim "i^lod) 

unb fteUe bann oie ^Irmloc^iefe burc^ I be§ S. Sh. M. Jeruntcr, Don 

. ^unfte A nac^ E. 

S!>tcffut nnb fBerttbcttung bet ^efie. 

CbLjIei^^ bei ber 2Befte nic^t bie '^rcffur \vk beim S^od oor^unebmcu 
ift, fo ift bod) maud)e§ ju mcrlen, maS t)on 5lul3en fein mirb ; meldie^' 
jebod) nid)t burc^ ^ia. bargetf)an icerbenlann. gangen mir benn 1, 
bei ben shawlmcften an, bcbor bie 3Befte unteraefd)(acien mirb ; foflte 
ba§ 5Borbert(]eiI am §aIMod) (^ruftgcgcnb) ob einsucon (5(uynaber) 
norfianben ober nic^t, etiuay eingcbiicielt tucrben, fo and) bay S^^ifdien* 
f utter [buckram]. 

2., fotite ba§ SSorbcvt^eil am ^Irmlod), in ber ©cgenb, mo e§ fid) auf 
bie ^(rmfugel auf(erit, ein rcenig au^ge^ogen mcrben, ebenfall^ ^an 
3tt)ifd)enfutter. 

^V\ I'euten, me(d)e id)nml in bie Saif(e [Seibiueite] finb, ftarfiu ber 
33ruft, ifl e§ fe(bftoerfidnb(id), not!)menbin ein siK;on (^tngndber) im 
33orDertbei( unten nad) ber '-Bruft l)in, ()erau^3une()men; mobci e^ aber 
and) 35orfic^t bon Sciten bei^ '^Kibcitcii^ erforbert, baB ber sn9on nid)t 
c]dn,^tid) Devbiigelt mirb, [ma§ (eiber nur ju oft gefd}icf)t] fonft ift c5 
umfonft felbigen Ijevau^j ^n fd}neiben. 

S3ei bidbdud)ic]cn ^3Mnnern ift e$ nid)t nott)menbig ein sncon unten 
am 53orbcrtf)ciI f)eraui^]nfd)ueiben, mdbvcnb luir lion ber 8eite c\i\^, ha 



20 

tDo bic 5:afcf)e gu fie^eii fommt, feI6ic(en 6erau»nef)men. (Sief}e gig. 12. 
§ier derlancit e§ aber nicf)t iDeni^er SSorfic^t uon ^eitenbe^ ^rbeUer§, 
bamit bQ§ 53nrbert^eil bev gorm bes ^or|3erg gemag^ gearBeitet mirb. 
gerner bebarf ey meift aucf) gar feinen ©eitennat^=^cf)tDeifung artber 
|)uften; bagegen treten bie |)uften folc^er ^^perfonen, inber 9tegel, tDei= 
ter wad) ^inten, ftarf f}erDor. @g ift bafjer oft notftig, im Dludt^eil 
ein 3^*^^ 3—4 god lang ein^ufe^en, tDte 6el 5^- 12 unten, buri^ ei= 
nen !(einen bertifalen Strict angebeutet i[t. Si^ie '<::(i)na(Igurtel fiit 
bicfbdiK^ige DJtcinner miiffen ieber^eit ^iem(id) tief gefegt tnerben, bamit 
fie nic()t unbequem fiiv^ben 53^ann fiiftten. Xer riragen foHte jeber^eit 
J 3ofi Hir^er gefii)nitten tDerben, a(§ ba§ §aI§(od), (inbem er ^tvoa^ 
au^ge^ogen mirb) bamit er t)on ©eiten beS ^2(rbeiter» nid)t gu laug auf-- 
gefe^t merbeit faun, may befonber^ uon ber geriugeren Piaffe %xht\Ux 
gu befiird)ten ift. 

33ei ben ®teI)bruft=2Beften, b. f). 2Beflen oljne ^^ragen, mie auf gig. 
1 (breast-vest) ^u erfefteu, gilt ebcnfally ha% oben befdjriebene, in ^^n= 
betrad)t be? giiibligeliiy mib ^Insiefieuy; nut baB JDir ^icr no^ ein 
snoon ertni, t)on ber 5(d)|e( nu§ einfc^neibcn, moburd) ba§'3(u|arbeiten 
bebeutenb er(eid)tert mirb. ^er siicon fann aber auc^ roeggelaffen 
njerbeii, flalt bcffen mnfe banr. ha^ i^orbert^eii oben bei ber 5id)|el gut 
awSgejogen, unb nud) ber 5D?itte f)in, gut eingebiigelt mcvben. 

'g^cfdireiOung ke "^^aakwc^mtn^, ber Seidiimng 
unb k^ Jufdjuiftes ber Sovie, \\m auf pia. 
13 & 14 in fedi^fad) Derlileinertem 
'gv^aaPafie aufgeHeat. 

Xk @riinb(id)feit be? Waafmc()men^ bei ber ^-^ofe ift ebci^fo vo\d)UC[ 
cl§ bei ben Dtijrfen. 

2)aifelbe mirb auf folgeube 5^eife genommen: 
V^ege bay '^Maf, an ber ^eite i Soil iiber bev ^Mifte an unb meffe. 
1., biy jum ^nie, (merfe bie !^ange,\ 
2,, bann ^nx Dolleu J^^inge. 
3., 1)ie Sc^rittldnge. 
4., ^ie 33unb* ober l^ibmeite. 
5., ^ie i^iiftenmeite; 3 3'-">U unter ber Seibmeite. 
6., 2)ie (SefdBtDeite, auc^ ^iUmaaB genannt. 
7„ ^ie 5lniemeite, unb 
8-, 3)ie $IBeite auf bem guise. 
> 5lnnterfnng. ^^ei cnganliegenbeu .v^ofen nef)me 3ur 5>erDoII- 
ftanbigung bey DJfaafjey. 
9. no^ bie <Sd)enfeI= ober ^enben=^Hite unb 

10. bie SBeite ber 2Babe, 

11. 5 — 6 3olI iiber ber guBbiege. 

5liimerhin^ 5U %^m\U 3. v^divittliiiuic Um ^l^:? 'I'JiaaB riit)tia| ^u erbaUen, 
i|t cS notl^tt)enbu], ba^ auf ber ^vigur iievjeidnicte CHuftiuinenr ilio.; 36, ^u c;ebrau« 
men. 3u bem'^ailc, bn^ fcHdlcs uidn ^iur A^anb, adite genau barouf, bac ba« 
aiiaaB feft in bev Itttttc bc« ed)vittc>> aucjelciit unvb. 

9lnmevlung ,^u i^unlt 6. (^ttjmaau. " i^cini i^icffen bc^ ^iUniaaBt\^ laffe 
bie giifee fcft sulammeu fteflen, unb aduc barauf.bajsioldic^ ftcte iibcv ben ftdrfficn 
2;i)eil gcnonuncn jvirb. 



21 



neu§ unb be§ 3"Mnitte§ iiBer, itnb tterfaljre alfo: le^c^e 
1., on bev 'eeite bey -tiicE)e§ ben SBinfef bemrt an, ha]^ ber hir^c ©cf)en= 

!el f'reii^rDeile, ber lange (S(i)en!e( aber ber ^cinge be§ 3;ucf)e§ entlanc^, 

gu liegen fommt. 9lad)bem nun ber SBinfel abtie^eitfjnet, lt)eld)e3 un§ 

bie Sinicn A [unb B Ifieilmeife] iiiebt, Der(dnciere. 
2., bie Sinie B ;^nr DoKen erforberlid)en Sani]e ber ^ofe, (nebj't 1 ^o\{ 

3ngabe fiir llmfc^lac]). 
3. Secje ba§ Waa)i bon '^unlt A auf Sinie B entlanc^ an nnb ntavfire 

bie ^nie(dnc;e (9J^aaB ^^o. 1) ben ^n<i!t E bilbenb; i)ernad) bie uoKe 

Sdnae an ben ^unft F biibenb. [93haB^co. 2]. 
4., SSon ^unft F auf Sinie B, (epe ha^ ©djrtttmaail (aly "^Jlaa]] 9?o. 

3) auftndrt§ an, icetc^e? ben ^_un!t D bilbet. 
5., 93hirlire '^unft C ober ^ufteupnnft 3 3olf itntef ber Ceiblneite obcr 

Sinie A; menn biel'e§ c^efcljeben, ^5ief)e ron h^n ^nnften C, D, E, F auf 

Sinie B an§, bie Sinien C, D, E, F unb fte[Ie. 
6v 3]on ber Sinie B any auf Sinie D, J ber | Si^meite, Dor $unft G 

biibenb. 
7., 5Son *^un!t G- i ber i ©iijujeite, tneniaer J 3ofI, "i^unft H bi(benb. 
8., S3Dn "iPunft G | ber J ©it^meite, ben ^unft I M\)mh. 
9., ^on i^unft I i|i2 bei"| ©iijiueite, ^ur Dollen Seite ber 35orberf}o|e, 

ben ^untt K biibenb. 
10-, Sfieile bie ©ntfernnna bon K nad) D in 3H)ei gteicfje 2:I)ei(e, ^m 

^unlt L qelDinnenb. ©ie^e Seit'ftnumi. 
11., Stelle Don ber Sinie B auf ?inie F i|i6 ber h Safeineite uor, ben 

^un!t M biibenb. 
12., 5?on ^unft M fielle J ber ^ ^ituneite Dor, ben ^^unft X Intbenb. 
13., S3on Sinie B J ber (Sii^ineite tneniger J ^i-"^^^' ben "punft O biibenb. 
14., Xbcile bie (Sntfernnng^Don ^unft "M md] O in 2 gkii-^e rlbeile ; 

f)ierburd) ben 'ipunft P geminnenb, (luelc^e^ ben 93litte(pnn!t ber 5Bor= 

ber^ofe anf bem gufte ergibt). 
15., Si^^c fotaenbe c^erabe Sinien nnb ,^n)ar: Don ^unft D an ^inie B, 

nad) ^nntt M auf I'inie F; Don 'ipunft G an ^inie D nad) ^uuft N 

auf Sinie F, Derldni^ere fo(d)e bi§ ^nr l^inie A, (t)iefe 2inie bilbet bie 

balance I'inie G- (ber 33orberf)ofe), Don 'i|3unft L auf l^inie D/ nad) 

^unft P auf Sinie F unb Deridnciere foId)e ebenfallS biy ,^_ur Sinie A. 

(X)iele Sinie cjebrauc^t man ,^ur 3'^id)nunci ber §intcrf)D)e unb bi(t)et 

balance 5inie L fiir bie ©pilH' ber §interf)ofe). eiiefie 3'^'i^tininq. 

55on $unft I auf Sinie D, nad) ^unft O auf IMuie F. 

16w 3:()ei(e bi.^ ^iftan^ Don ^nmft H nat^ $nnft I in 3 .:^(eid;e 3:f)ei[e, 

""^unfte 2 nnb 3 bi(^enb. 
17., ©tclfe Don ber balance Sinie CI auf SinieC, J ber I §iiftenmeite 

nebi't I 3oll .Siifl^^f^ bi-ir, ben ^fnmft 5 bilDenb. 

18v * 

nad) 
19., ^^on '-pnnft 5 auf Sinic 3 ftede ,^ur 8eito f)in \ ber -S'^iftcnmeile, 

ben '-Punft U biibenb. 

20., Stelle Don ber ])alance I'inie (r auf ?inie A, i ber \ l^eibmeite Dor 
(^reite Der red)ten '-l^orbcrfjofe) biibenb hm 'fimtt R. 



')t h 3oU .Siifl^be Dor, ben ^fnmft .> bilDenb. 
33on '^.^untl ."> suriid, erlaube biefelbe ^iftau: nlv Cc Don Ininft II 
f) H^unft C ift, hm ^-Pnnh G biibenb. 



22 

21., Son ^un!t R fiefle blefelbe 2)ifiang bor, ala Don ^unft H nac§ 
^^unft 3, ben ^unft S bitbeub. (Sreite ber I:n!cn ^crber^ofe;. 

22., eteile Don '$unft S auf Sinie A, nac^ Ijinten, i ber ^eibroeite, ben 
^Punft T bilbenb. 

23., S>om ^:|3untte R nacf) 6, Dom ^43unfte 6 nad) H, oonti^unft S^nac^ 5. 
23om 5]3unfte 5 nad) 3 ^iefje £inien. _ 

'24, Urn bie unbebincit not6n)enL)ii.]e §erunieri"tellun9 im ^(^jitte ju er= 
(anatu, nel}me t;en 2*3infel unt) fet^e ilnt auf folgenbe 2Beife ait: Die 
^pifee befjelbcn fege auf l^iinft H auf I'iuie D, ben langen cr^cftenfel 
nac^ aufrDdrt^ unb gmar fo, baB bie dunere ^ante ben $uuft S auf 
I'inie A berii^rt, ben^furjen 3d)eufel entlani^ gie^e eine i'inie, rcelc^e 
jobann bie riditii^c ^tcdung ber -^un!te K unD I ercjibt (fie^e 3^ic^ 
nun a) KK unb II.' 

25., Sit'^*-' ^i^i't' '-■'om ^^unft T auf ^vinie A, nac§ bem ^^^unfte K auf 
V'inie -D. <:;iel)e 3^id)nun^. 

2G., ^ki)^ oom SorDeut^eil ber linfen 53orbcr^ofe eine gefc^njeifte $?inie 
nad) bcin -punfte KK, morauf babei ^u a^tcn, bag i 3^^ ii^^t^i-' ber 
uom ^4-^unfle T nad) K i]e^oc;euen fd)rdge l-inie ^eblicbeu mirb ; Lfiefje 
^eid)uunal; uom i$Drbevtf)eil ber rcd)ren ^'orber^ofe ^je^e ebcnfaU» 
erne (^tfc^ioeifte ^>^inie, ^ Dor bem $Uij!te II Dcvlaufenb. ^. ^t^it^uung. 

27., $fi^i)c I'inie uon KK alimd[)lii"i nad) ber I'iaie E (ober cVl:nielinie). 
@6cnjo oeifaI)re oon ber ^ 53orftc[iun(i be? ^^untte^ II nac^ ber ^inieE. 

28., -Uun 5ief)e eine Viiiie Don ^^unft T auf Vinie A, meld)e aiimdftlic; 
nad) bem fwnit: D auf VinieB ()in Derlduft unb ben '^^unftU berii^irt. 

29., ^)h]]c Don ^Hinft KK ficrunter nad) 'l^unft O unb fefte, mieuiel an 
ber Dollen c:?d)rittldncie fel)lt, bie ^^ifferen^ t^ebe alebann Don ^unftM 
(ber Seitenna!)tber Sorbcrftofe) auc na:^ X^iint: [)tn, ^u; f. _3eid)nun(^. 

30., Stelle bie '-i.HvjberI)o[e oorn 6ei ^t'linft S auf Vinie A u;n fo Diel ^er= 
unter, a(» bie £)dlfte loeniiier i 3oll i-^oi" '?ninfte A na:^ T ber Q3or» 
berbofe an ber Scite au>5tnad)t, erL]ibt '^ninft S. S^^^l^ ^i"^' ^^'ii^if Don 
X'unUc T nad) 8. r53ei biefeu Vinie mirb bie inn-berl^ofe au^gefc^nitten] . 

31., 5tad)bem biefelbe i]efd)nitten, ift c^ noi^iDenbit^, bie reite 35orber= 
f)ofe auv,^nfd)neibcn, (ni.u1p:t dress; |lef)e 3eid)nunvl). 3olIte jeboc^ 
ber ^\unbe aw ber re.ttcn ^eite breffen, mirb ber dress Don ber linfen 
2Norber[)ofe ab.^ejdinitten; '^\[U[\i uud)t Ginfd)iiilte an hen fimtUn D, 
E c^^ F, [bei E c^- F auf beiben 2elten]. 

^intct^oic* Xia^rani 14. 

^^ei}e bie sui)efd)nittcne i'oibcrl)ofe berart auf ben iibrii^ gebliebcnen 
Stoft, bajs ein ilhium Don. 4—5 3oU am obercn (|-nbe unb 2i— 3 3cC 
am unteren 6nbe frei bleibt; ift bie i'orbcrbobe in biefe \?ai)e gebrad)t, 
oerldnaore bie !Oinien A, C, D, E, F, fo aud) bie balance vinie L ;bie 
l?inien E & F nadi beiben eeiten) bin, bie ii^inie A & C aber nad^ )i(!i) 
felbft an [f. 3.] ' ^ie i>orberf)ofe Derbleibt in biefcr ^^aije bie bie 
^intcrbofe sum 3nH1)nitte DoUenbet ift. 

1., Stclle Don ber balance l^inic L ;,v^intei-^ofc) auf ber oer!angerfen 
!^inie A, J ber ^^\i"biiieite, nebft 1 3»-'»'d 3^^^^^^^ suriid ; X^nnh \ bil^enb. 

2„ Urn bie riditicu^ C'^bbe ber .nintcrbofc 5u betcnimen, fet>tf ba3 
^)lm\ mit ber linten ^^anb auf '^'unft L ^auf Vinie D ^ bie red)te ^->anb 
aber mit bem l^iaa^ unb ^rcibe auf ben '].^unft Vunb 3iel)e Don^|>un!t 



23 • ^ 

V nai) ber berlangcrten ?mie L, eineu Sii'^el^itg. '^a tro ber S'nliU 
^ug bie Derldngerte ?ime L fcf)neibet, ift Die rid)tige §o^e ber $inteTf}ofe. 
3v 3i^^^ ^iii^^ ^31^" ^imlt V nad) ber ?inie L, ber^o^e ber §tnter^ofe 
unb fc^roeife felbiije 3—5 QoU lang aus (fie^e |)unftirte Sinien auf 
ber 3firf)nung). 

4., 3^^^^ ^i^^ Sinie non ber Sinic L (ber §tnter6ofe) nad^ bem 55un!t 
IIauf?inieD. 

6., 33erldngere bie Side, tt)eld)e ^ur ©enmterftellung ber 55orber^o[e 
im Sc^ritte-biente imb ftefle auf berfelBen dom '$unfte KK (ber (infen 
3]orber^ofenipit-e) i|i2 ber i Simt)eite tior, ben^^^ninft W biibenb, 
[^Xiefer ergibt bie DoUe 3Beite ber'gintert)ofe im ^cf)ritt]. 
6., ©c^tDeije biefelbe im ^erljdllniB ju ber 33Drber^ofe aug. 
7., Stelle im 8d)ritte auf ber t3erldugerten Siuie E ^in i|i2 ber J 
©i^meite, meniqer J Dor, ben ^unft X bilbenb. 
8., DJ^effe bie SSeite ber 53DrberftD|e am ^nie unb lege ba§ ftierburc^ 
eriangte 5JZaap auf ^13un!t X an ; meffe nac^ ber Seite ^in bie DoIIe 
^niemeite nebft 1 Qoii 3^ill^i^^ fii^' ^^^ ^Zdftte, huT, '$unft Y bilbenb. 
9., 9}Zeffe bie 2Beite ber ^^orberljofe auf bem guBe, unb fubtra^ire foU 
c^e Don ber Dotlen SBeite ber gan3en ©ofe ; [roobei ni^t ^u bergeffen, 
boB ber fiirbie DZd^te eriaubte Q^U, jur Dotlen SBeite 3U redjuen ift], 
ben 9^eft ber baburc^i eriangten 2Beite (ober uot^igen SSeite ber ©inter* 
l^ofe) t^eitc in 2 g^eic^e 2^eile. 

10., $Bon ^^Nunft P auf Sinie F, (ber DDIitte ber ^^orber^ofe) lege bie 
eine §dlfte ber get^eilten SBeite, ben ^^un!t CK bilbenb ; bie anbere 
$dlfte lege bon bemfelben |Pun!te P auf ?inie F, nac^ rec^t5 
an, ben ^i^unft KC bilbenb, (fie^e 3^^4^"^^9]- 

11., 9}?effc bie 5Seite ber 2}Drberl)ofe Don $un!t S na^ T, bringe bie 
ftierburrf) er^ielte 2Beite auf bie Sinie L ber §interI)ofenfpi^e, meffe 
bie 20eite ber ©inter^ofe nacf] ^un!t V ^in, unb ma§ mef)r a(§ bie 
§dlfte ber Seibmeite, nebft 1 god 3^i9^^^ fii^' bie 9KUjte betrdgt, ne^* 
men mir burc^ einen 5{u§f(f)nitt [siigon] ^erau^. Sie^e 3t'icftuung. 

12., 3^^^^ f^ne Sinie bon ^untt V auf ber berldngerten Sinie A, nac^ 
$unft Y auf bet berldngerten Sinie E- 

13., Shin gebe ungefd^r 3 3olI ober^alb ber £'inie D unb meffen bie 
SSeite ber linfen 53oiber^ofe, bringen bie er3ie(te SBeite auf bie £)inter* 
^ofc unb meffe nad) ber Seite ftin, bie $d(fte ber Sitjtucite, nebft 2| 
3oll 3u9fi^^ f^^* ^fi&te, ben ^^^unft Z bilbenb. 

14., gormire bie |)inter^ofe ber §eicf)nung gerndB- 

5^ie 5orm be^ 33unbe§ iffiuiS ber gig. 9?o. 17 5U erfef)en ; bie 
betreffenbe 2Beite ift bie J I'eibmeite mit IJ ^oll 3it9ti^^. 
3ur Ucbung [^^n-ari^] gebraud]e nacfifteljente SJJaaji 



1., ^nieldnge 23 30^. 

2., t^oKe Sduge 42 " 

3., (Hcf)vitt(duge 32 " 

4., Seibmeite 32 " 



5., |>iiTlenmeitj 34 Soil, 

(l, ©efdBmeiteob. Si^mafeSG " 
7., .Qniemeite 20 " 

8., 3i^eite auf bem J-uf^e 19 " 



5(nmertiing ^u ^inmtt 11. 3"i" iJ:^ciipieie : tie ipdlftc bcv 's^cibiueite bctrdi^t 
IG 3oU, mit 1 30U 8"gabc 17 '^oW, il£^ir l)abcn abevim (^air^eii 18 3oU, joli^^ 
Iid)"l S^li ^uoiel, morion jebod) luiv h ,HoU burdi beu snoon Qucgc)d)nitten, 6a 
Der iibrig bleibeube k 'S^^ fiii' ^i^ 9idt)"te evlaubt unrb. 



24 

giir ^icfbau^e. 2)ia. 15. 

a, Stetle auf ber Stnie D ton $unft G nod) H unb auf Sinie Fbon 
^imft F m^ O, J ber ©i^lDeite meniaer | Joll (anflatt i 3oLO Dor. 

b, giir foId)e ^erfonen mirb bie ?inie C, ober |)uften(inie, 4 — 4J 
goo [anftatt 3 3oU] unter^alb ber Sinie A ^e'^ogen. 3)ann ftctle 
auf ^inie C t)on ber balance 2um L qu§, J be^ §uftenmaaBe» nut 
I 3oIl (anftatt i 3oU) Sn'^^^ ^ox, urn ben ^^Punft 5 ^u bilben 

c, 3Son $un!t S auf Sinie A fteUe bie J ^^iftau.;^ Don ^unfte A nac^ 
T [ober meftt, menu e^ ber 5^unbe oerlangt] nac^ aufmdrt» [f . 30 
Urn ben ^unft V ^u geminnen, ftellc auf ber derldngerten^inie A oon 
ber balance Cinie L au«, J ber Seibmeite, o^ne 1 Soli 3^9^^^ ^^^' 
(ha 6ei folcf)en §ofen ber su9on [^2(u^fc^nitt] uberfluffig ift.) ^eim 
5lnlegen be^ Si^maaBe^ erlaube 3 3oll 3uaa6e fur'» ^ufaibeiten, h^n 
^untt Z bilbenb. Siir S3unb fie^e ^la. 18. 

SPRING BOTTOMS, ^ia. 16. 

9J?a(I)e bie ^bdnberungen ber 33orber5ofe na4 ben a^if ber 3_ei(inung 
gema(^ten pun!tirten Sinien. Sci ber ^interftofe im erf)ritt fteUe ijiQ 
ber J Si^tDeite tueniger J S^ll ton KK au» oor; ben '13unft W biit)= 
benb; ferner gebraud^en mir bie bei ben reguldven §ofenmaaBen ange= 
fu^rten ^rgdnjung^maaBe 9?o. 9, 10 unb 11. 5(1$ Sugabe fiir Uld'jtc 
gebe bei ber ^c^enfelmeite 1| 3tII- 33ei ber Simueite menu bie ^ofe 
befonbev» eng Dcrlangt 2 Soli- 

^tldtttevungett unb ^kdnbertttigen bet $pfe 
flit Detfd^tebene Steduttgeit ber S^etne. 

2)ie 5lbduberungen finb burd) punftirte Cinien Dcranfc^aulic^t. 

1., ^ia. 19 unb 20 jeigt un5 bie '^Ibduberuung fiir fogenannte i?ul)* 
beine, b. ft. fold)e bei luelcftem bie ilnie nad^ innen fleftcn unb mancf)= 
mal fo jtarf eintt)drt« ftcften, haf:, fie jufammen ftoBen, menu ber 'llJann 
aufrcd)t ftc^t. 2)ie ^(bdnbcrung betvdgt, loenn fe^r ftorf, | Joll auf 

- ieber Seite. 

2., ^ia. 21 unb 22 geigt bie 'Olbdnberung fiir bie entgegengefehte 5?au- 
art, b. ft. folcfte bei mel^eni bie ^nie au^mdrt^ gebogen" finb [foge- 
nannte ©dbelbeine]. ^ie ';}(bduberung bctrdgt ebenfalls J 5oII, me'nn 
feftr ftar! gebogen. 

3., i)\a. 23 unb 24, jcigt bie ^(bdnberungen fiir iBeine, bei ml^tn 
bie Sufefpit^en au§tr»drt» geftellt finb. ^l^ie ^Ibduberung betrdgt Don 
h bt» I B^% K nad) ber '^efc^affenfteit ber '^eine. 

4., ^ia. 25 unb 26, jeigt bie '^Ibdnberung fiir 53cine bei tuelcften bie 
gufefpi^en nad) innen geteftvt finb. ^ie '^(bdnberung betidgt fo Die! 
al0 bei ^1 3. 

6.^ ^ia. 27 unb 28, 5(bdnberungen ber ^ofe fiir 'i'erfonen mit befon* 
bere» groBem (^cfdg [©efcftled)t4tfteil]. Tie XUbdnberuug iftebenfall^ 
Don ber ©voBe abftdngig- 

6., giir ^Nerfonen mit feftr ftot)en nnb fiarf fterDotftebenben C^iiften. 
^ei biefen bilbet bie ©runblinie A, bie ^inie morauf ber '.i>un^ ange- 
ndftt mirb. * 



25 

Stefielttr tt»eld&e t>om S^neibev helm ^nfaticiUn 
bet ^pfc jtt head)ten fElt^♦ 

^ia. 29 unb 30 gelten fiir bie fogenannten g e r ab e n pantalons. 
6§ ift bnbei 311 bemerfeK, bag bie ^iftan^ Don A big B ouf ber 
SBorber^ofe ein trenig einjuarbeiten, unb bie I^iftanj Don C bis D ber 
rec^ten ^^orber^ofe aiiy^usiel^en iff. (Snblit^ ^iel^e beibe 5Sorbev:^o1eii 
t)on A noi^ abtt)drt§ auS, | fiefte 4)ia. 29 ber B^ic^nung]. ^ic ©in* 
ter^ofen finb tjon A bis B ein Uienig auyjusieljen. [(^ie^e ^ia. 30]. 

^ia. 31 unb 32 geben bie pantalons fiir cnrpulente ^erfonen. 
SBeo6a(5te biefelbe fiir ^ia. 29 gegebene 9tege(, bei ber ?8e^anblung 
be§ 2^eile§ ton A bi» B unb Don C big D. ^ic S3au(i)form Don E 
bia F ift bet beiben 55orber^ofen gut ein^ubiigeln. 2)ie 3)iftan| Don 
Don A abn3art§ mirb mie bei ^ia. 29 ungegeben, bejanbclt. ^ie 
^inter^ofen merben in bie 25orber^ofen Don A biS B turj eingefe^t, 
[fie^e punftirten Sinien auf 2)ia. 5^o. 15] unb Derfal^re bei ber 5Diftanj 
Don A bi§ B, tuie bei 5)ta. 30 angegeben. 

5Dia. 33 unb 34 geben bie 3s^^"«ng fiir SpringBottoms. ^ie 
^iftan^ Don A bis B unb Don C bi§ D ift ^u beftanbein, tDie bie ^egel 
fiir ^ia. 29 gegeben ift. ®ie ^iftanj Don A abiDcivtg muB gut aus* 
ge^ogen n)erbcn. Sei ber ©inter^ofe mirb bie 2)iftani^ Don A bis B 
gut augge^ogen, ebenfo Don A bis E unD Don bi^ D ; Die ^iftaug 
Don E bis F unb Don D biS F ift gut einjubiigeln. 

5Inmer!ung. Wt $ofen miiffen auf ber balance Sinie G 
eingebiigcit merben. ^Sie^e diagram 35. 



m » ^•» 



Measures to cut ready-made 
for men's, boy's & youtli's clothing. 



Breast 


Waid 


HipM. 


Front 
balance 


Back 
balance 


S.Sh. 


Sleeve. 


24 


23 


5^ 


15 


132 


162 


22 


26 


25 


53 


153 


14 


18 


24 


28 


26 


6 


16 


143 


191 


26 


30 


28 


62 


172 


161 


203 


28 


32 


292 


7 


182 


172 


222 


30 


34 


31 


71 


20 


191 


241 


31 


36 


32 


V 


203 


20 


26 


31i 


38 


34 


81 


21 


201 


271 


32 


40 


37 


85 


211 


20^ 


232 


32| 


42 


39 


9 


218 


202 


298 


33 


44 


41 


92 


22 


203 


311 


33i 


46 


43 


101 


22a 


211 


322 


34 


48 


45 


103 


23 


212 


33. 


34i 



^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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